Park Ave Herky-Jerky solved?

I know I've said it before, but I think I have finally solved the Herky-Jerky problem I posted about here over the last several months.
As a final effort to diagnose the problem, while we were on vacation
for a month I left it with an independent garage noted for their diagnostic talents. Naturally, they found nothing concrete, just like my other independent and the Buick dealer. However, they did say it sure seemed like ignition break-down. Some of you may recall that I replaced plugs and wires early on in the ordeal, using the OEM AC plugs but Federal-Mogul wires from a local parts store. Someone on this listed said at the time that "new wires are sometimes worse than the ones removed," and the Buick dealer complained mildly about "non GM parts on the car." Finally, in desperation, I decided to follow up on these thoughts and replace the wires again, this time using the genuine GM set, which by the way were cheaper than the Federal-Moguls. As you have probably already guessed, the problem seems to have gone away. I'm hedging a bit since there have been times in the past when I thought it was fixed only to have it come back. However, over the months I learned it would always happen if I drove the car about 20 miles, stop for a Starbucks, and drive back, all in the warmth of a Southern California afternoon. I've now done that twice since putting the GM wires on, and got absolutely no herky-jerky, so my confidence level is higher this time.
Just to review, here are the other things done, none of which fixed the problem:
Coil packs Ignition module MAF sensor Coolant temperature sensor Throttle position sensor Did not replace it, but ran with the EGR valve disconnected Fuel filter Fuel pressure sensor Tested rail pressure Gasoline additive to displace water Spark plugs (twice) Spark plug wires (non-GM)
In the meantime, we bought a new Avalon. So, the Park Ave is up for sale and I will probably never know if the GM wires really fixed it in the longer term.
Ed
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A simpler and cheaper solution would be to change from Starbucks to some other brand of coffee, or make your own.

Nice car. Hope you enjoy it. It is on my list of "possibles" for a new car.
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But, how would I get in the requisite 20+ miles of driving to get the symptoms? Oh, I get it, take a Thermos!

We really like it. Check out http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?forumidH
Ed
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Ed,
Good Luck with the Avalon - let us know of any problems with it........
harryface 05 Park Avenue 41,661 no herky or jerky, 91 Bonneville 307,044 w/ engine knock.
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Harry,
OK. It would be interesting if 10 years from now and 100k down the road it started doing the Herky Jerky!
Ed

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I am not convinced that OEM cables are better than aftermarket ones, but hope this fixes the problem. Ignition cables can be pretty delicate, and they can be damaged very easily. Same goes with GM cables.
A friend owned an Olds a few years ago, and had a history of herkyjerky with that damned car. The stealership kept replacing the crankshaft position sensor and the car would run right for a while, and then screw up again.
Finally, the Olds went into such a state of orgastic shuddering that it broke the timing drive. As you can imagine, considerable damage was done. When they presented my friend with the bill for the valve job, $2100, he got pretty red in the face. (A new factory fresh engine could have been bought and installed for about that much ten years ago.)
I believe he went over to Ford about that time.
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HLS,
Obviously, I too thought there couldn't be that much difference. The Federal-Mogul wires were made with Beldin cable, and both of these brand names have always been first rate in my book. I was careful in installing them and careful in removing them when I put in the 2nd set of plugs. I do know to twist the boot to break it loose, and not to pull on the wire, for example. But, looking back on the whole episode, I wish I had put the GM parts on. If nothing else, it would have removed that issue from the table.
Did your friend's the problem go away after the $2100 fix? Interesting he went to a Ford. I was telling my story to a friend who drives a Crown Vic. He said he had much the same problem, and replacing the ignition module fixed it. I suspect that all or most newer cars with the TCC (practically all, I believe) are subject to this problem... small engine problems getting amplified to become major drivability issues.
Ed

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Well, Ed, the problem went away because the car went away... He had had enough Bought his wife a new Continental.
He had a Ford van about the same time, that was a nice comfortable vehicle, but suddenly, it began to go bad too. Would just quit on him. Took it to the Ford stealership in Crosby, Texas and they kept it for a week or two, during which time he had to rent a car. When he got it back, it immediately started misbehaving again. Back to the dealership. This time they replaced fuel pumps, and I don't know what all. When he got it back, same old shit. It would run for a while and then stop.
Finally, several thousand dollars into scattergun parts replacements, and even more in car rentals, he asked them to check the fuel lines. Yep, they were partially plugged. Would run for a while and then plug solid. Relieve the pressure and they might open up a little. Amazing that a dealership mechanic could screw around so long, replace a ton of parts, and charge him literally thousands, and not be able to diagnose plugged fuel lines...
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When you have stop run situation isn't fuel delivery one of the KEY things to check/measure? I always thought the key things were fuel, air and ignition. That is one lousy mechanic, or else one crooked garage that tries to rape you for as much as they can.

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If you are talking about my friend's experience, then yes, it was at least incompetent and perhaps crooked.
Both instances were ********dealerships********....
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I had a problem once that may have been related. On a 70 degree or cooler day I could drive all day long and no problem. 85 degrees day or hotter and about 20 miles the car would die just like it was shut off. Sounds like vapor lock right? Except if you pulled to the side and hit the key it would start right up instantly. Away you would go. Maybe 10 miles maybe 1 mile. It would die just like you shut off the key. Pull to the side and it would start right back up again.
Replaced all the things you mentioned plus some you didn't try. We had it to 4 different garages and they said it ran fine and wouldn't act up for them. Finally one mechanic took it for a drive, more than around the block twice and it died for him. He said just before it would die the fuel pressure dropped. He spliced a wire into the ground wire of the in-tank fuel pump about two feet from the tank and grounded it to the frame with a screw.
Yeah right, like that is going to fix it? It did! Never had that problem again in over 100,000 miles of driving. Since then he gets all of my business. Somewhere there must have been a connection in the wire that would break contact when it got real hot. Then cool down and make contact by the time you got stopped. Not herky jerky, but might have been if the contact had reestablished before it died completely.
Ed wrote:

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