Re: 2.8 v6 rebuild

First, knocking USUALLY comes from a bad bearing. A hole in the piston will cause fumes in the crankcase and will easilly be noticed by taking the oil
fill cap off while the car is running, and looking to see if there are fumes coming out. OR you can pull the dipstick and smell it for unburned gasoline in the crankcase. It really depends on what you want to do with the car as a whole. If you are going to keep the car for a while, pay for either a quality rebuild, or a recondidtioned motor. If you plan on getting rid of the car in the near future..get yourself a junkyard motor or repair the one you have. Most reputible yards will offer at least a 90 day warranty. You can tell if something is wrong within 90 days. Currently in that situation with a F**D Mustang in my driveway. My friend broke the crankshaft. I had to convince him that it was cheaper to just rebuild the bottom end than buy a whole motor. Would have paid $800 for a junkyard motor, plus $350 to put it in, ,plus a nothe $100 for incidentals. Now he is paying about $700 to have the motor pulled and a new lower end put in. Bottem line..how long you keeping the car??
John

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I pulled the oil cap and see no fumes, I can't really tell if theres a gas odour from the dipstick.. if there is it's not strong. I tried using some injection cleaner in hopes it was just a dirty injector making it run lean. Any way of checking the vacuum hoses or any telltale signs of a vacuum leak? How do I know if its a bad bearing? P.S. planning on keeping the car awhile (4th car on road this year)

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
A bad bearing will sound like a little man tapping the inside of your motor with a hammer. the sound may get louder with the RPM of the motor, or may level off depending how bad it is worn. Now do not get it confused with pinging. That usually sounds the same, but only under heavy acceleration, or load. (caused by a number of things) What kind of fuel do you run? have you changed the type (grade/octane) recently. What you need to do also is a compression check, to see if there is a problem inside. Sears...heck any auto parts store shiold have one in the neighborhood of $30-40. Follow the directions or ask someone here how to use it if you do not already know how. If you have good compression in all the cylinders, you are looking at an ignition problem, and a through tune up usually solves it.
I would pull out ALL the troubleshooting possibilities before I yank the motor.
Hope this helps.
John

it's
make
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Sure..it can. But it would have to be substantial enought that the ECM could not compensate with more fuel. Plus a really big vacuum leak usually shuts an engine off. Get a vacuum gauge and see if there is a fluxuation at idle, and see how it reacts at a little higher RPM. The gauge should go down in vacuum as the RPM's increase. I could be wrong...but it may only need a timing chain replacement. If it is worn, it will cause a miss, and a rough running condition. How many miles on the motor?
If your vacuum gauge fluxes more than 5-6 lbs at idle, I would point at the timing chain. DON'T take my word for it....it is just where I personally would look next, if all othe things were exhausted...did you get the compression check done yet? That would rule out a hole in the piston.
John

it
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.