You aren't missing anything, other then you have to apply
quite a bit of pressure "while" turning the piston. We had
a special tool that would apply pressure while rotating the
piston and it worked quite well.
Steve's method works too. You do not have to have
loosen, or remove the nut and lever, but when you do
this, you can now simply push the piston into the bore,
and you will see the lever shaft turning. If you do not
have the correct tool, then Steve's method is the
easiest way to get the piston back into the caliper.
thanks Ian .. I bought one of those piston tools .. It's a box that you put
a 3/8 ratchet on .. and I turned, and pushed, and turned, and push .. and
finally, finally, I won the battle. the piston is a little worse for wear,
but not to bad.. and well .. the brakes are on, bleed, and working...
I did notice something. Those pistons that the caliper bolts go through ..
the ones that slide in and out .. even with the boots on em, one of them was
frozen a bit >:( Interesting that happened even with the protective boot on
I won't be doing friends brakes anytime soon :) What a PITA!
Oh, and Ian, Steve, thanks for the input, I would have given up otherwise.
Yes, those always would rust in the bores and seize up. That's
actually one of the biggest problems with those early W-body
rear brakes systems. Whenever I do a rear brake job on one
of those, I also install new updated pins and clean all the rust
out of the bores and install new boots and grease. The pins
come in a kit with the boots, grease, and installing tool.
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