Re: HELP!!! Seized Motor Removal

Can you drop the oil pan and loosen the main/rod bolts until you find out which one(s) are bound up? After that it should turn relatively easy.


and
with
TC
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Believe it or not that is exactly the same solution I came up with at dinner. I was so frustrated at the car that I had a mental block. Thanks for confirming what I am going to do with it. If I can't actually unbolt the pan to get it out of the way, I will take a cutting wheel to it and make it get out of my way. Motor is junk anyway.
Anyone need bit parts from a 3.1
John

bearing
the
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I wonder if it's better to remove head, and shatter piston ? I'm assuming you,ve tried oiling the cylinders, and attempting to rotate in * both * directions. A melted piston might turn one direction, not the other. The mains approach sounds good, yank rod caps, try pushing each piston up, may wind up torching seized rod [ s ]
Best of luck
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"KenG" wrote

The only time you want to remove the torque converter with the engine is in the case of a seized engine. Of course, you have to have the room to be able to do this, and in the OP's case, you would not be able to do this with the powertrain in the vehicle. You would have to drop the entire powertrain out the bottom and "then" pull the engine and torque converter out. There is always a good possibility that you can damage the converter bushings and the input shaft on the trans. But when you have a seized engine...you do what you have to do.
Ian
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I once killed a tranney by pulling an S-10 2.8L by engine-pulling w/o disconnecting the torque-converter from the flywheel. It pulled a little tough but we had the whole front off of the truck so I thought it was going to be OK. Well after it was all back together and running for about 2 months, it started slipping - then after a couple weeks of that it slipped-completely. When I got under and looked it was that the tranney shaft had actually bent enough to do too much flexing of the flex-plate (fly-wheel). The middle of it broke out right outside the bolt pattern. There was a barb on it that caught and made the truck move ok till the slipp-past-barb broke and it just spun. Thus unless you're pulling it with the tranney attached at the bell-housing I would recommend agains this manover (unless you cant get the bolts off due to the engine-seized situation). Try real hard to reach a wrench up in there. The tranney with the slightly bent post became a 'yard-ornament' until I sent the old van/storage-shed to the junk yard (with that old tranny included). The van was great ($50, drove it home, kept motorcycles in it for 3 years, and hauled away by the local junk-yard for free). Elliott
shiden_kai wrote:

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You are correct. Just yank it with the engine. Unbolt later.
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Steve
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Well DUH. You have to remove stuff till there is MORE clearance. OR pull the trans off first.
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"Steve Barker" wrote

Ahhhh...what do you suggest removing, Steve....on a front wheel drive Grand Am? Maybe the passenger fender, and then cut a section of the body out? You haven't done many of these, have you?
Ian
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Plenty. Just pull the sub frame, then the trans. You got a better idea? BUT it's all a moot point, because he already butchered the pan and got it out.
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"Steve Barker" wrote

it
That was "one" of your options. The other was "Well DUH. You have to remove stuff till there is MORE clearance". And how would you accomplish "that" without removing the sub and trans?
Ian
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So you mean take off the right fender and cut out the right strut tower?? Should I use a torch, ,or would a sawzall work? And could you recommend a good welder to put it all back??
John

both
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Just yank the converter with the engine. It's messy, but necessary.
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Steve

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Hey group
Thanks for all the input. Yes, I chose to butcher the oil pan on an already butchered engine. It worked wonderfully and saved butloads of time and energy.
Note to Steve..If I was going to take the time and go through the trouble of removing the subframe, then I could have UNBOLTED the oilpan and removed it correctly, by the manual. Since I work in my driveway, and do not have any of the specialty JXXXXX GM tools, hanging the motor off my cherry picker to remove the subframe would have gotten in the way of removing the frame. Also..I only own one jack, and that was strategically holding up the tranny. Time is money and a 160K blown engine is worth little to nothing.
Thanks all again
John

and
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