Remove Rear Driver-side Door Panel? Buick Century 2000

How does one remove the inside door panel of the rear driver side door on a 2000 Buick Century?

The window wasn't working, and then I foolishly pushed the down button and it went down a few inches and won't go up. I can slide it up by hand, but it won't stay up. I guess whatever holds it up isn't connected or under the window or something. I'm handy mechanically, as far as engine repairs go, but getting this door panel off is a mystery to me.

The motor will run in the down direction, sometimes, but in the up direction for only a few moments. However, that's mostly irrelevant, as I really just want the window securely up, and then I'll leave it alone. And when the motor runs upwards, the window doesn't go up any, and it can still slide down by hand all the way.

I managed to pop out the small plastic panel that surrounds the door handle and lock, but there was nothing helpful that I could see in there.

There was a little pop-out panel in the bottom of the hand grip and two hex-headed screws under that, which I removed. But the panel is still quite secure.

I expected it to just pop loose, but the first two places I tried "popping" I broke plastic fasteners that appear to go into the material of the door panel adn look like they were plastic-riveted on the door metal side.

Anyway, the point is in the first paragraph. What is the secret to removing the panel without damage?

Thank you for any helpful or humorous suggestions.

Jeff

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Document ID# 607471 2000 Buick Century --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Trim Panel Replacement - Side Rear Door Tools Required J 38778 Door Trim Pad Clip Remover

Removal Procedure

Remove the power window switch (3), if equipped. Refer to Power Window Switch Replacement - Rear Door . Remove the arm rest pull cup cover (1). Remove the armrest pull cup screws. Starting at the door bottom, use the J 38778 to release the door trim panel retainers. Lift the trim panel up to release the top edge and remove it from the door.

Installation Procedure

Important Before installing the door trim panel to the door, discard the old trim panel retainers. Use new trim panel retainers in order to properly secure the trim panel to the door .

Install the new trim panel retainers to the trim panel. Position the top of the trim panel at the window opening and press down. Align the fasteners into the holes in the door metal. Firmly press the door panel to seat the fasteners.

Notice Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the armrest pull cup screws. Tighten Tighten the armrest pull cup screws to 2 Nm (18 lb in). Install the armrest pull cup cover (1). Install the power window switch (3). Refer to Power Window Switch Replacement - Rear Door .

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<much snippage>

Thank you, Silver Surfer, for the rapid and helpful response. I guess I need to find one of those Door Trim Panel Clip Remover tools. I wonder if that's dealer only or if the auto parts store sells something that will do the trick.

Thank you again,

Jeff

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I just use a J - screwdriver, everything GM makes takes a special J something or other tool. Most of the time I find I can use something in my garage that does the same thing.

wrote:

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I've seen the equivalent of the GM special tool at Auto Zone and Advance. Inexpensive. The business end of the tool kind of looks like a rounded off putty knife with a "V" notch in the middle.

wrote:

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Got it. $7 at AutoZone.

Thank you and thanks also to Adams Family. I appreciate the help gentlebeings.

Wish me luck using the tool correctly. :-) I wouldn't worry, except inherent in the nature of this tool is that you can't see what you're doing while you learn how to use it...

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snipped-for-privacy@io.com (Jeff Walther) wrote:

I got the panel off without damage.

The problem appears to be that the window lowering cable came off of whatever it uses as a pulley at the bottom of the window shaft. This created much extra slack in the lowering cable, which then wound onto the winch.

However, the same winch is used to wind and unwind both the up and down cables simultaneously. Furthermore, there is very limited space on that winch for cable.

So the extra slack wound onto the winch, overcrowded it with cable, even folded a bit of the cable, and caused the winch to jam when it tried to raise teh window, which would have involved winding up-cable onto the winch.

The motor seems to be fine, as is the attached winch assembly. The cables are a little beat up, but I think they're usable.

I just need to figure out what the down-cable loops around at the bottom of the window shaft. I can feel some slick plastic or nylon down there, but there doesn't seem to be clearance between the plastic/nylon and the window shaft on one side to slide the cable around the plastic/nylon. I may have to unbolt the whole assembly, tilt it over and pull it out of the door.

Anyway, just wanted to let folks know how it's going and add to the list of power window failure modes. I don't really have any burning questions, unless someone wants to describe what the down-cable uses for a pulley, but I think I can figure it out.

Jeff

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