Removing lower pulley on 3800 V-6

'88 Pontiac - GM 3800 Engine Trying to get to the CPS to change it- I can't get the pulley in front of the sensor mounting bolts off, even with a good 1/2" air wrench. I have
already broken one socket. The 1-1/8" bolt is rusted on tight. Tried soaking with penetrant over night. Could it be reverse threaded? Anyone have any experience getting these loose? I don't want to break anything else. TIA -Dan
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
If you are talking about the harmonic balancer retaining bolt, the one you need a 26mm socket for, it's tightened to 200-239 ft-lbs. Apparently you need some sort of alignment tool to install the crank shaft position sensor.
Steve

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Just do what I do, get a breaker bar, a 3 foot long piece of pipe, and there you go, 200+ ftlbs of torque :D
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Dan wrote:

I've had lots of experience getting these loose. You cannot rely on a "good" 1/2 inch impact wrench...you must have an "awesome" one. I've always had the best one's that you can get....and have no problem getting these loose. Every now and then, you get a tough one.....I oil the air wrench, then I let it hammer away on the bolt in the "off" direction. Then switch the air wrench over to the "on" direction and beat away on the bolt for 2-3 seconds. Then switch back to the "off" direction. I haven't had one yet that I couldn't get off. But again, you must have a good air wrench.
Ian
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks for the responses. I got it off today doing exactly what Ian said. After working on it for an hour last night and two hours today, it finally broke loose and came out- and with standard thread. Sure have a sore wrist though from all that hammering! The problem rust was around the outer edge of the bolt's flange- not on threads by design. I didn't use 3/4" drive air tool fearing I would break bolt off in the crank. Next time knowing the type, strength and position of the bolt, I would just crank on it with all I had. If on a vehicle I intended to keep- I'd probably change the seal while there. This one wasn't leaking and I had too much time in it already. The bracket was hard to get off and broke- a new one comes with the replacement sensor, but if I had it to do over again I'd just leave the old bracket in place. Sensor alignment is critical, but can be done by eye if you are exacting and careful. Alot of the problem was from age and rust. Thanks again. -Dan

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.