Removing oil pan on 86 Caprice 305?

I screwed up the seal at the front of my oil pan when I put the timing cover back on after changing the the chain. I couldn't get at all the bolts to loosen the oil pan to lower it without lifting the motor. Is
it that hard to lift the motor, pull the oil pan out and replace the gasket? Do I have to take the Y pipe off too?
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Yes, it is not that hard. There is only one bolt running throught the motor mount on each side under the motor holding it down. Remove the Y pipe. Remove the starter. Then slightly lift the motor (using a cherry picker or a jack and a 2 X4 on the front balancer. Once you take the tension off the motor mount bolts, you can remove them relatively easily. Then you can continue to lift the motor a few inches (checking that you do not crush the distributor on the firewall) enough for the oil pan to clear the crank, and the oil pickup tube. It is critical that you do not bend the oil filler tube in this operation.
When replacing it, I use a bead of RTV on the cork to help hold it in place while wrestling with the position of the pan and the bolts. Make sure you get a bit on the corners of the rubber gasket as well. DO NOT CRUSH THE CORK!!!! if you see it starting to squeeze out of the pan/block, you are going too tight. I skip every other one and tighten a little at a time so it seals evenly.
Be sure to use the right rubber gaskets. Your Fel Pro kit is universal and will fit several years/types of V-8 Chevy motors.
Good luck!
Eightupman

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I use gasket cement or contact cement to hold the gasket in place because I found silicone over a cork gasket allows it to squeeze out sometimes.
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Thanks for the replies, I found out the 86 uses a 1 piece rubber gasket, supposed to be better than cork. Local garage wants 3.5 hrs @ $57. an hour plus parts, he suggests changing the oil pan at the same time they're another $50-$60. Jacking the engine up carefully by the balancer doesn't dammage anything?
snipped-for-privacy@mcpmail.com (Al Bundy) wrote in message

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The BEST way is to use a hoist and pull up from the top. I'm not following why the need to CHANGE the pan. If there are any dents, or if the lip is warped, it can be carefully worked out with a rubber mallet and a block of wood. Only time I have ever replaced one is either a gash in it from hitting something, or the oil plug was stripped out. BUT for ease of maintenence sure...replace it.
I personally have never damaged a motor by jacking it by the balancer. I am NOT saying that it can't happen. You could get fancy and fashion a frame to lift by the sides of the block, but then you would be putting things in the way.
$160 for that job at a garage is probably not that bad, considering some dealers are pushing $80 an hour. They are on point with the price of a new pan. I could not find one under $50, BUT did not search for hours either. http://tanks-to-pans.com/site/823208/page/366781 . May be worth it this time to let someone else handle the task, and the headache.

timing
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The local auto parts quoted $52 Cdn for an oil pan "kit" and had a seperate listing for the gasket. Seemed cheap to me too, they would have to order it in. As the garage suggested, the pan is rusting on the sides up near the top. Probably get it done, getting old and lazy. Thanks for the advise.

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