Repairing Rusty Electrical Connectors

You want metalworkers tinning compound, not electronics grade tinning compound. Metalworkers tinning compound is a mixture of lead dust, and acid. You apply it with a paint brush, to clean metal, than heat it with a propane torch . The lead dust forms solder balls, at this point, wipe area with damp rag, and a thin layer of solder will remain. Reheat this solder, apply quick wipe of plumbers paste [ flux ] and add some plumbers solder, which melts at a lower temp than tinning compound.

When sanded smooth, you will have the ultimate place to sink a ground screw into. Your problem is corroded contacts in snap connectors ?

Your better off finding similar connectors at the junkyard and change out your bogus ones one at a time. Failing that, get a dental pick and gently scratch each connector. A FiberGlass Bristle Brush is available for shining up rust nicks in car bodies, called Rust eraser, its plenty abrasive, while short lived, does wonders on mildly corroded contacts. Good luck. One last tip ! Coat the contacts with water mix valve grinding compound, snap them together, and apart a few times, than brush with toothbrush [ the contacts ! ] Use water mix because its easy to wash away.

Reply to
Paul
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Ok, so after all this, why not just get a new heater switch? I think my old Jeep CJ7 uses the same switch and they are still available. Or just cut the bad spades off the thing and solder on some new ones. I have swiped (unsoldered) the spades from dead headlights for this very job.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

All this tinning and replating sure seems to be a painfully huge amount of work when one can just replace connectors or a switch, doesn't it?

-- ~~R.Banks

Reply to
Robin Banks

Parts for these old cars are hard to come by. When you do find them they can be expensive. Besides, I like to fix things.

Reply to
Scott Buchanan

Me too, that's why I mention a source for 'new' spade connectors.

My heater switch is currently broken on one Jeep. One spade rotted off (the power in one) so I have it unplugged with a small jumper for heater controls. I have to remove the dash to get at mine, it is too rusted to unscrew the bezel. I have the spade from a dead headlight waiting for me to get ambitious and open it up.

Mike

Scott Buchanan wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

I have used three different fluxes. The one that works best is Oatly Tinning flux. A dab on the work surface and the electrical grade solder flows well.

Reply to
Scott Buchanan

Since it seems that you can read, use a dictionary.

Ken

Reply to
Ken Doyle

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