replacing elect window motors-Buick LeSabre

I need to replace the electric window motor in the back door of my 1991 Buick LeSabre. Can someone point me to a site or book that tells me what all I have to do to get the inside door panel off so I can get in to the
motor? TIA
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Just so you know the power window motors are riveted in and you have to dril out the rivets ( about 6 of them ) to removed the motor. You can re rivet the the new motor in or use nuts & bolts. Its quite an involved job. Took me about four hours ( driver front door ).
Not sure of the procedure to remove a Buick door panel.
Good Luck.
========Harryface ======== 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE ~_~_~270,000 miles_~_~_
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jhill wrote:

I had the '91 Park, which should be pretty close. It had a left rear window that would not operate. I followed the diagnostics as I found in the Helm manual, and I concluded that the problem (for mine) was actually inside the driver door, at or near the controls. At first, I did not see the Allen head hex bolt that held one door panel on, so I had the dealer do the work instead. They concluded that it was actually the window motor, so they replaced it and it worked. Then later, the whole set of symptoms came back. I followed the Helm manual again, and again I figured it must be in the driver door switches or nearby. I took it to the dealer again. They called and said that it was the window motor. I explained to them what they had previously replaced, and then I told them what the Helm manual said. Two hours later, they called to say that it was now all fixed. No new motor. No charge. They never wanted to admit exactly what it was that was intermittent inside the driver door controls. Maybe a connector.
---Bob Gross---
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the switch at the back door does not work either. The window went down 2 inches and stopped, won't come back up or go on down. I at least need to go in and move the motor or whatever to get the window back up!

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jhill wrote:

If you study the electrical diagrams, you will see what I mean. The rear door's switch does not connect directly to the rear motor. The switch is wired up through the driver's door switches and then back to the rear motor.
On the other hand, this one sounds vaguely like the contacts inside the motor could be toast.
Did you follow my earlier comments, based on the Helm manual?
---Bob Gross---
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Bob, Sorry, I don't know what a "Helm" manual is -- more details. Something I can buy at a better Auto parts store? Something I have to order?

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jhill wrote:

Whenever you purchase a new GM car, you purchase the real shop manual from Helm, Inc. It varies from model to model, but it is typically two volumes about the size of a telephone book, and the price is typically $100-150. I figure the manuals are worth ten times that price over the life of the car.
---Bob Gross---
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Most door panels have 2 or 3 screws. look in the carpet of the door, or under the arm rest and near the handle. Once the screws are removed, you need to grab the panel and pull hard. It will come off. It is attacked with plastic push ons. They hold the door in(they can be bought at any parts store). I start at the edge of the door and pull (screw driver will help, then work all the way around the door. Once the panel is off, duct tape the window in position. If you don't it will come crashing down once you remove the motor. Most motors are held in place by rivets (faster to assemble that way). You will need to drill out the rivets. Some rivets might hold the window channel. I bought a new muter and compared it so I could figure out which ones to drill out. I am no expert, and it was the first one I did. It will take a couple of hours.

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I removed all the screws I could see, but the arm rest still seems to be fastened to the door frame through the panel somehow, so I can't pull the panel off. Everything else is free as far as I can tell. I have looked all around it for screws (or pop-off screw covers) that hold it on, but don't see any yet

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jhill wrote:

Are you trying to pull open the front door or the back door?
---Bob Gross---
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sorry Bob, my original posting got lost. It is the back door on drivers side. I am trying to get in to change the window motor.

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jhill wrote:

I understand where the symptom shows. When my Buick had the same symptom, it turned out that the fault was inside the driver's door. So it was the driver's door that I had to tear apart. The dealer kept tearing the rear door apart and getting incomplete results until I got him to look in the driver's door wiring connectors, which solved it.
---Bob Gross---
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I'm not sure what years it was on but some of the Buick padded armrests slid either forward or backward on the lower portion of thing it sit on. It seems to look like a wedge clip that is on the bottom of the padded armrest. After the padded armrest is removed more screws will be expoused that need to be removed
========Harryface ======== 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE ~_~_~270,000 miles_~_~_
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Harry Face wrote:

The real PITA screw is kind of buried behind the lens/light on the very end. There are also at least two screws in the center - you have to remove the switches to get to it. Nasty to work on design.
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That is probably the clue I needed, I'll try that.

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