The Unsolvable Miss at Idle....

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They wanted to charge me $2600 for a few repairs... like $1000 for the intake gasket! Needless to say, it didn't quite happen....
Also, I have replaced the PCV valve. The cheap $2 valve was one of the first things tried.
I did pull off the EGR today and I noticed some drops of watery condensation in it. Other then that it didn't look like there was any sort of EGR part to clean. But I'm going to look into it tommorow again.
I don't know about the MAF, since it's not sending any engine codes... but you never know.
The fuel pump or fuel pump regulator seems possible based on some other posts I've read. The best bet may be to bring the car into somebody and have them diagnosis it.... any other ideas?
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Tim Payne wrote:

My car didn't register a single code for a busted MAF *or* PCV system - just a cryptic "do not drive" message on the tester/probe.
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"Tim Payne"

MAF sensor. fuel supply. ignition system.
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S.S.I.N put it simply, but I'm agreeing with him. There are still more ignition componets and fuel system componets to check. Since you get no codes, it will take time, whether you do it yourself or not. But you should check each cylinder and confirm that it is getting spark, and correctly. Then confirm that each is getting fuel. If all are getting both, then I would check or have checked vacuum leaks in hoses, and then a leak down test. The combination of the tests should get to the bottom of it. IMO, it would be best to confirm what system is at fault, then start pointing at parts.
Good luck with it
Tony
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Tony V.) wrote in message

Well, I've got one more crack-pot idea, then it's to an ASE blue seal shop to get this thing fixed.
But, my oil sending unit leaks, and upon further usenet scouring, I've found out that my fuel pump is controlled by the oil sending unit. So maybe if my oil sending unit is broken it affects my car at idle because the fuel pump is getting screwy signals and leaning out my mixture?
What do you guys think... I hadn't heard of the oil sending unit doing things like this, but there seems to be some support for it. I don't knokw if it would do something so extreme as to give me like a miss at idle, but you never know.
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: > Rommel wrote: : > : > > If you had your car at a dealer for $2600 of repiars and they couldnt fix : > > a stupid miss I'd say you have an extremely shitty mechanic. : > : > I agree. the EGR valve and MAF are the firt things that any : > competant mechanic should check, then the timing chain, then : > the camshaft sensor. : : They wanted to charge me $2600 for a few repairs... like $1000 for the : intake gasket! Needless to say, it didn't quite happen.... : : Also, I have replaced the PCV valve. The cheap $2 valve was one of : the first things tried. : : I did pull off the EGR today and I noticed some drops of watery : condensation in it. Other then that it didn't look like there was any : sort of EGR part to clean. But I'm going to look into it tommorow : again. : : I don't know about the MAF, since it's not sending any engine codes... : but you never know. : : The fuel pump or fuel pump regulator seems possible based on some : other posts I've read. The best bet may be to bring the car into : somebody and have them diagnosis it.... any other ideas?
That watery substance is a mix of water and distilled alcohol/gasoline/oil. Probably more water than anything else really.
Again, I this doesn't sound like a recirculation problem or a MAF sensor problem. But hey...what do I know.
Martin '01 Formula - MTI Air Box Lid, K&N Filter, Hurst-6, SLP Cold Air Induction & Smooth Intake Bellow Corsa Catback w/Premium Tips '83 V45 Magna
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snipped-for-privacy@ncf.edu (Tim Payne) wrote in message
<snip>
Hi Tim,
Let me add one more thing to check. It might me a long shot but I've seen it on two Camaro's like yours with the 3.4L.
Crankshaft thrust bearing worn causing erratic crank sensor signals. Its easy enough to check. Just use a small prybar to see if there is any endplay in the crankshaft. The hard part is - this is a major repair.
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One cheep thing you should do, especially if you have over 50K miles is change the inline fuel filter. They cost any where from $6.50 to $25. Then try a good fuel system cleaner. STP makes a good one called "Complete fuel system cleaner". It smoothed out the idle on a 160K 93 Olds Cutlass (3.1) that I had. I run 4 bottles thru it in one month (I was being lazy). You could also have (don't laugh) dirty fuel injectors. Allot of shops will claim that as a last resort thing, but at times it actually does occur.
Other people have given good advice, and I'm not saying to do this over theirs. Yet a the fuel system could have low flow at low RPM's and not be notable, or bad enough to affect WOT or part throttle acceleration.
Charles
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I haven't looked at the MAF, but I did replace the Oil Sending Unit which has seemed to help the idle a bit, as a mechanic who I talked to said it would.
I just noticed that my brake pedal is making a bit of "whoosing" noise when I push it. That seems like the most likely culprit for a vacuum related problem. I don't know why I never thought of the braking system.
My brake pedal is spongy from the top and then gets really hard after a little bit of movement. Does that mean I should look into the master cylinder or is the brake booster? Or could it be a hose is mucked up back there?
Thanks, Tim-
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