Timing Belt and Chain

My '95 Monte has developed a noise in the front of the engine. Sounds like the timing chain, but it could be a bad timing belt pulley. I have ordered a
Gates timing belt kit, which comes with the belt and any required pulleys, for $211 CDN. Will hopefully be doing it this weekend. Also looking into replacing the timing chain at the same time.
I don't have a question, just wanted to post this note.
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I assume this a 3.4? if so you are in for a tough job.

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You assume correctly. I understand it's a tough job, just like anything I replace on this car. Like the alternator, the intake manifold gaskets and rear differential. I'm sure I'll get through it, maybe a few cuts and bruises along with subsequent curses, but I'll make it.
Would I learn anything if I pay someone else to do it?
Steve
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Definitely replace the two belt tensioners also. If you don't the new belt may not last long. The only trick to the job is to have a pair of the cam alignment tools. It's an easy job with these.
Steve I know that you are on this NG a lot, and I'd be willing to lend mine to you. I bought a set from Kent-Moore when I did mine. They're $78.00 or I could have paid someone $350.00 labor to do it.
Let me know if you want to use them.
Brian
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I was going to just make my own using some 5/8" bar, but I'll borrow yours if you'll let me, but where are you? This newsgroup stretches really far! ;)
Steve
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Sorry, 1/2" bar, or keystock. We have keystock at the shop, but maybe not 1/2" bar.
Steve
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I'm in Cincinnati Ohio. But UPS goes everywhere ;-)
Or you say that you have a machine shop available? I can draw these and send the drawing as well. I can send you an AutoCAD drawing, DXF file or a ProEngineer model. For that matter I can snail mail a drawing too.
Let me know what you'd like to do.
Brian
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AutoCAD please. ;) It's not a machine shop, it's more of a fab shop. Saws, drills, welders, sanders, grinders, a small milling machine and an endless supply of steel. We make conveyors, I am the engineer/designer/millwright/machinist/welder/salesman/network technician/anythingelsethebosstellsmetodo guy. ;)
Steve
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Now THIS is what the newsgroups are all about. Helping out. Excellent!
Steve

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Steve I'm getting errors trying to post a file to the NG. So here are the files for download. I'll also send them to you directly.
Let me know if you can't view them.
Brian
http://home.cinci.rr.com/mfgengineer/files/3_4_Liter_Cam_Stop.dwg
http://home.cinci.rr.com/mfgengineer/files/3_4_Liter_Cam_Stop.pdf
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Nice! I'll work on making one and send pics.
Steve
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Steve Mackie wrote:

Frankly, it's a big enough job doing the timing belt without also attempting to replace the timing chain. I wouldn't bother unless you know for sure there is a problem with it. I've never had to replace one on the 3.4 engine. It will make a big job even bigger.
If the engine was running satisfactorily for you....I would advise you not to mess around with loosening off the cam sprockets. Just take the front covers off first and see if you can see the original factory paint marks on the sprockets. If you can, you will save yourself time and grief by simply using those marks instead of going thru the "special tool" procedure.
Ian
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I would love to try and get away from doing the timing chain, but there is this noise that sounds like the chain is hitting the front cover. Maybe the tensioner is gone. I'm just going to replace the belt/pulleys, see if everything is good. If not, then tackle the chain.
The timing marks are still there on the cam sprockets. I will take your advice and try to do it without loosening them. I have 4 different manuals, two Haynes, ALLData and the factory manual, I will combine them all, come up with a good plan and do it.
Steve
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Steve Mackie wrote:

Remember that when you look at the original timing marks, they will not appear to line up...but this is simply a function of the used timing belt having stretched. Usually, the front marks are closer in time then the rear marks. With a new belt, they will be quite close....don't get all excited if they happen to be half a tooth off. You then have a choice, leave it alone, or do it the hard (special tool) way if you want it to be "exact".
When you install the new belt, start at the dummy shaft sprocket and then proceed counterclockwise thru the idlers and gears. Take some time to learn how the tensioner works, how to retract it and keep it retracted until you need to release it. You will need something like a paper clip to keep it retracted. Tensioner goes on last...and I also leave the eccentric idler out until I have the belt around all of the other sprockets and idlers. As you progress with the belt around the front sprockets...use something (those office clips that hold paper work well) to keep the belt in place on the cam sprockets. Do the same when you get to the rear sprockets.
Hopefully, that will help you.
Ian
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It's funny, on the way to work this morning I thought of a question to ask. It was, "if I don't do it the "exact" way by using the hold down tools, what do I do if the marks on the cams don't line up when the mark on the balancer is lined up with the mark on the front cover?"
Steve
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Oh, it does have 245,000kms (152,000mi) on it. Still running on the original belt. ;)
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