UPDATE!!! replacing steel brake Lines???????

to let gravity fill the rear brake lines until fluid came out the back........then i filled the master cyl. again closed ever thing up but my pedal is still very soft.???
Ok guys I've replaced all the bad and leaking brake lines and hoses...........at leaset all the ones i've found so far.
I tried Is there air still in the system?
also the front brake lines are fine and I never opened the lines up .......but the master cylinder went dry from working on the rear.........did air get into the front line??...cause I can't get the bleeders open.......even with a pair of vice grips.................any tips
Next thing I'll do is get some one to pump the brakes and I'll bleed the lines again.
thanks Brian
If you want to try your hand at double lap flaring, AutoZone will lend you the correct tool for the job at no charge.
I was scared to do try it myself for the first time just a few months ago. It was a piece of cake.

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sorry above post was jumbled.read below
Ok guys I've replaced all the bad and leaking brake lines and hoses...........at leaset all the ones i've found so far.
I tried to let gravity fill the rear brake lines until fluid came out the back........then i filled the master cyl. again closed ever thing up but my pedal is still very soft.???
Is there air still in the system?
also the front brake lines are fine and I never opened the lines up .......but the master cylinder went dry from working on the rear.........did air get into the front line??...cause I can't get the bleeders open.......even with a pair of vice grips.................any tips
Next thing I'll do is get some one to pump the brakes and I'll bleed the lines again.
thanks Brian
Ok .great what you said is exactly what I just did last night......and the only thing I have to do now is check for leaks and then bleed the entire system..........Im going to let gravity refill all the lines then hopefully i'll have a hard petal.........with no more leaks.
I 'll let you guys know tonight..............Thanks a million
Brian
If you want to try your hand at double lap flaring, AutoZone will lend you the correct tool for the job at no charge.
I was scared to do try it myself for the first time just a few months ago. It was a piece of cake.

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Sit in car push brake pedal and hold for 30 seconds and repeat until you get a hard pedal. When you press and hold the pedal it give the air bubble time to work its way out of the system. We used to do this on fork lift trucks because or the way the brake cylinders were installed . some times it would take an hour to get rid of air and this was the only way.Good Luck

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OK guys your all great. I replaced the broken lines..........had to put a new caliper on the front cause i could not get the bleeder screw off........plus after trying to tap it out there was metal everywhere.Bleeding the system i just let gravity take its toll on the sytem then I pumped the hell out of the system over and over again.
So any way the Brakes are now great. Thanks a bunch to everyone that helped out.(total project cost $49 dollars versus several hundred previous owner was going to get charged)
Now onto the Exhaust (needs entire system) and then the back shocks and this 92 cavailer (40k) will be perfect. Im going to try and piece together a system from AUTOZONE....i fiqure that will save me alot of cash. I've done shocks on a 92 dodge dakota so I think i should be able to do these.
any tips would be very helpful.
--------------AGAIN THANKS ALOT GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!-------------------------------

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bmaty wrote:

Good that you got it working ok. Rear shocks are fairly easy. Wear goggles when doing the exhaust - rust chunks always fly directly into eyes.
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Dog wrote:

If air entered the front, you can unbolt a caliper, and squeeze the piston back into the bore, air will percolate out through fluid, works best if pads are worn, as piston sticks out further.
Some cars have proportional valve that you push the button while brake pedal is down, that rascal can make bleeding fun.

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bmaty wrote:

Ok, unless i missed something, how did you end up replacing the steel lines? Did you buy pre built or flair raw lines?
Bob
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I bought short sections from Autozone..........with doubleflared ends then used a flaring tool i got from work.......autozone can lend them also.........then i used a brass union and the job was done...........any way
Just bought the shocks going to put them on now.....
Brian

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When you say "brass union" are you speaking of a compression type fitting?

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No. I've heard that you can use those but there not legal...........I have those on my plumbing in my house and I don't like them too much.so under a car would scare me....................The brass fitting Is from auto zone.........it works with the easier single flared lines. and cheap.
any way I now know how to do steel line repairs........very easy if you have the flaring tool.(autozone)
Also i just replaced the back shocks..........very very easy except for the bottom bolts being all rusted to hell had to use rust breaker, torch , vice grips and bandaids for my busted knuckles.
The local Autozone was pricing an exhaust system for me and they told me off a local guy who does exhaust work very cheap and not to even bother with it. So i guess Im ready to get this car on the road now.
Its a 92 cavalier with only 48,000 miles but it sat for a few years. So far the car has only cost me $500 50 for parts and 450 for the car.
thanks alot guys.

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On Sun, 6 Mar 2005 14:43:24 -0500, "Silver Surfer"

I'd guess he's talking about a flare coupler.. they're about $1.50 each at NAPA. I really hate seeing compression unions on brake systems.. what a lazy ass mickey mouse way of doing things.
-Bret

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Based on previous discussions in this group it was my impression that "single" flare fittings are inadequate for brake service. No offense intended to Mr. "bmaty," just concern for his safety.

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On Sun, 6 Mar 2005 23:49:41 -0500, "Silver Surfer"

yep single flares are bad... so are compression fittings. they were never intended for the 2000PSI + of a panic stop. the flare coupler I am speaking of is specifically for joining brake lines.
-Bret

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