Keep twisting, after you get about 180 degrees around they should break
loose. Get a tube of dielectric grease to put inside the new ones before
you put them back on and make a habit to twist the boots off and squirt a
bit more grease in once a year.
Right you are. Got them off and now nothing but joy (grin). Anyway,
put a good dose of silicone grease in the boots at both ends of the
cables. Hope the job goes easier next time.
BTW, GM seems a bit optimistic with their 100,000 mile double platinum
plugs. Mine looked pretty rough at 90,000 miles.
I replaced mine at 50k, put the old plugs and wires back in the plastic bag
the new ones came in and stuck them under the hood. If I ever would
develop some sort of problem I can stick the old not quite worn out ones
back on one at a time to isolate a bad one. Did the same with the fan
belt, if the new one breaks I stick the old one back on and take the new
one to the store for warranty replacement.
. Get a tube of dielectric grease to put inside the new ones before
The last set of wires I bought, the autolight pro series, already had
grease inside the new boots.
I would be a bit leery of pulling spark plug wires too much. Sometimes
when you pull the wires the metal clip inside the boot won't detach from the
plug, and instead pulls out from the boot itself, destroying the connection
On Fri, 30 Jul 2004 02:25:57 -0700, "Ted Mittelstaedt"
I don't really have much useful to say here except a bit of head
shaking. It seems a bit strange to me now in 2004, after ALL these
years of spark plugs, that we are still pretty much using a fairly
antquated design for connecting the power distribution lines to the
plugs. So much has improved in materials and processes over the many
many decades. You would think that by now the design would have been
improved a bit more and resulted in a much better mechanical binding
of the wire to plugs etc.
Anyway... just wishful thinking for now.
That's pretty cool. There is hope! My LS1 engine has 8 coil packs,
but each one still has a (albeit short) wire to the plug. Still the
boots and all that like has been for so long. Speaking of which... at
how many miles would YOU change plugs on an LS1 Ian? I've read some
people say that the GM interval is too long to wait. Maybe GM knows
best, maybe not.
Also, do you have any tips on the easiest least time consuming method
to replacing that really hard to reach plug on it? I have a 2001 Z28
if that helps you get a better image.
It's really up to you. We've seen some engines that have over 150,000
klms on them with original plugs. If it was my vehicle, I'd probably just
do it every so many years no matter what the mileage. If you have cast
iron heads, it really doesn't matter. With aluminum heads, I've seen a
lot of vehicles that the spark plugs end up being welded into the head
because they were in there so long. Then the "long life"...."more
economical" spark plugs all of a sudden aren't so "economical".
Not really. I haven't actually changed plugs on that car yet. We don't
see many of those cars in the shop as it is. Other then the proper tools
and (hopefully) small arms and hands...that's about all I can offer ya.
Engine ICE cold. Let sit overnight. Have small forearms. You'll do
#8 from below. It'll take an hour-ish.
With platinum plugs you can probably do it every 3 years - with nitrous
I've gone to regular plugs so it's a yearly thing. (2001 TA)
Thanks Ray. I have rather thick lower (and upper for that matter)
arms. Also, this is 2004 and it's a 2001 so I suppose I should be
thinking of plugs. I don't think I'm due yet according to the "book"
This might seem dumb but, why cold engine? Does heat expand the metal
of the plug at a faster rate than the metal of the engine, and of
course the converse?
Ice cold is because you're going to be touching the exhaust manifolds a
lot. Burns suck. :)
Use a dab of antisieze on the new plugs. It took my buddy and I about
an hour and a half to change the plugs. A couple are easy - a couple
are a real PITA. We used a pickle fork (the ball joint tool) to pop the
plug wires off a couple because there's no room to twist the wires and
get any leverage in there...
you could see the impressions from the manifolds on my forearms after...
Yes, especially with aluminum heads. Not as critical with iron heads.
Pulling plugs in a hot aluminum head is a good way to ruin the threads in
the head. Anti-seize, as mentioned by others, is ok. Just be careful not to
get it on the insulator or on the electrodes. It is conductive and will
cause misfire. Best used very sparingly.
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