1981 Pontiac Parisienne, 305, RWD 85,000 KM.( YES, original)
After installing new rotors, pads + front wheel bearings I drove for
300 miles on highway trip.
Noticed some play in front end - more prone to wind buffeting.
On return I inspected wheel bearings.
Left side was a little loose - I hand tightened ~ 1/4 flat on nut more
whilst turning wheel.
Left side grease was markedly different colour than right side-
- black on left, original yellow on right.
When I originally opened from a sealed package new outer wheel bearing
prior to installing on left side, it was a little bit stiff to turn by
hand due to excess lubricant / oil factory installed for storage.
I packed it with grease prior to installation but didn't remove
?? What would cause different colour of grease in each side?
Does overheating result from slightly loose bearing +
?? If I decide to replace outer left bearing can it be removed without
taking off caliper + removing rotor? i.e. What's a good way of coaxing
outer bearing out with rotor in place?
Please reply to NG.
I am guessing if your new bearing came factory prelubed that the grease
may have been dark in color and that you may not have a problem, other
than that now you have two different types of grease in that bearing.
Here is what I would do: remove the bearing - it just comes right out
- scoop out any loose grease with your fingertip. Wash the bearing in
a small can of gasoline until it has no grease at all in it. Let it
dry thoroughly and inspect it - any pits? scoring? Blue color? if
all answers are no repack with the grease you used for all the others
and reinstall, drive happy.
If yes to any, you will have to remove the rotor to drive out the
bearing race. It is not recommended to mix bearings and races; I've
seen it done with no ill effects but it's not that hard to remove the
rotor, just remove the caliper, hang it out of the way, and slide the
rotor off. Drive the inner bearing out through the rear of the rotor
with a brass drift, that will pop the inner seal off without damage and
you will likely be able to reuse it. Now you can drive the inner race
out and replace it.
BTW I have a cheap plastic bearing packer that works with a grease gun,
it is a huge timesaver for jobs like this. I keep my grease gun loaded
with Mobil 1 chassis grease, that is good for both wheel bearings and
tie rods so I only need one gun. Doesn't hurt that my rear axle
(Studebaker Dana 44) has threaded holes for a Zerk fitting so you can
touch up the grease for the wheel bearings without any disassembly -
gotta love old, user-friendly cars.
The new bearing didn't come prelubed, it was coated in an unusually
heavy amount of oil / grease that was put on in factory before sealing
package. Had lots more oil on it than the other , outer bearing from
same manufacturer used on other wheel.
I regret not cleaning the NEW bearing prior to installation.
I didn't think that was necessary.
Same grease was used on both wheels : yellow Quaker State NLGI #2
Wheel bearing was SKF BR3 Made in Mexico
I didn't install races ( cones ? ) that came with new bearings, but
used the ones that came with the new rotors.
The new rotors didn't have the inner channels, grooves inside the hub
to aid in removing races. In the past I have installed new races in
new rotors / hubs but not this time.
What's a good way of coaxing outer bearing out of hub without removing
caliper + hub ? In case the outer bearing needs replacing.
Once you remove the nut, you can normally wobble the rotor enough to
cause the bearing to back out of the race.
BUT, I agree with Nate.. it is risky business and not recommended to
replace the bearing and not the race. The new bearing is made for the
race that was supplied with it.
Last, I have seen bearings come with a greasy coating which I have always
assumed is to prevent surface rusting. I have always thought it should be
washed out, dried, and then repacked with a dedicated bearing grease. I
may be wrong.
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