wont run

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My wife's 93 Buick LaSabre has been a great car. It has 185,000 miles on it. The engine is the 3800. Last week it started running badly like a plug or
two was miss firing. The next morning was a cold and wet one and it would not start. It had a strong smell of gas.
I changed all the plug and found a couple we blackened over. It did not look like oil and I don't think it burns any oil just has a few leaks here and there. I put a can of fuel injector cleaner it the gas tank and all seemed well. One day later on her way back home it stalled out 5 times in 20 miles and she said she could smell gas.
Could it need some fuel injectors replaced? They are costly and the car is really not worth much but we do still like it. If you think its fuel injectors is it possible to clean them?
TIA
When it would not
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Thought I would add this appears to me as a fuel injector problem on the subject line. Sorry I did not put that on the first time.

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How old are the sparkplug wires? Was it raining when the car was stalling?
Ken
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Plug wires are less then a year old. It was snowing

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Update. Its 38 degrees outside. The car sat all night and morning. I put in another can of injector cleaner and started it up. I had it at a high idle and it ran for about 45 minutes without a miss. I then took it down the road. When I accelerated it coughed and started running like it was only hitting on 4 cylinders. It stalled and I could smell gas inside the car. It started back up but ran poor and I was not sure if I was going to make it two blocks back home.
I have been told it could be fuel injectors fuel pump I ? that because I smell gas so bad fuel regulator
Please help with ideas

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add to the list: 1)ign module. causing miss but injectors still pulsing causing gas smell. 2)any or all of the coils.causing miss while injectors are still pulsing normally and causing gas smell 3)crank sensor causing miss while injectors are pulsing normally and causing gas smell 4)PCM causing miss........
the list goes on and on. dont get hung up on injectors being the prob w/out proof or your wallet will drain faster than your gas tank!...........kjun
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The engine light has not come on, I don't know if it will scan any codes.

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Lots of things that could be a problem but where and how do I start to find the problem. If its is injectors or any other costly repair then its time to say good bye to our old friend and hopefully find one as good as this has been

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As a place to start, see if there's anyone near you that will scan it for free (i.e., Autozone) or for a reasonable cost. Otherwise, I'd start looking and checking at as many things as I could before playing parts replacement roulette. Fuel pressure check would show if it is the fuel pump. The suggestion that Kjun made about ignition problems sounds like another good starting point.
Ken

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It wont run enough to get it to Auto Zone. I called them if a scanner is on the tool loader list and they said just put a paper clip on the two right side slots and count the times it flashes. They said it will flash 12 3 times then will give any codes it has stored. I tried that but all the lights came on and stayed on. Will try again later.

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If you want to try and retrieve the codes, you first need to shut the car off (the ignition must be off), then, put your paperclip into terminals "A" and "B", which are the two uppermost right-hand terminals. Now, turn the Ignition on (don't start the car). Your "Service Engine Soon" light should blink "12" three times. That is 1 long flash, followed by 2 short flashes. This means the car is in the correct mode to show you the codes. Next, count the other codes, all of which will be displayed 3 times. When code "12" shows up again, that's all the codes that are stored, and you can turn the ignition off, and disconnect the paper clip.

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Make sure you're jumpering terminals "A" and "B" with the paper clip, turn the ignition on first -then- install the jumper.
Also, if you have an ohm meter, check the secondary resistance of the ignition coils, the resistance shouldn't be more than 12,000 ohms. These coils were VERY failure prone, i.e., high resistance or open secondary windings. They're also a bit expensive.
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wrote:

I mean no offence, but everything I have read about retrieving codes from OBDI have said to have the ignition off before inserting the paper clip.
<N.Dawson>
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What you're describing is actually the procedure for setting minimum air rate on [some] EFI vehicles, grounding the ALDL first and then turning the ignition on runs the IAC in fully. It's an actual 'engineered in' function.
Don't know what sources you're reading, mine comes via the local GM training center and training publications.
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This is where I am confused. Auto Zone told me to put the paper clip in the far right side. It is agreed by this group to put it in A and B. My mind tells me A and B would be on the left side.
wrote:

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I have four pins on the top row and two on the bottom
I did check the coils and found one to have a weaker ohm reading so I replaced it. It still stalls out on acceleration. I am sure this was also a problem but I still have another to find.
Thanks for all your help so far.
wrote:

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Got the code. It shows 12 three times and then 12 three times. No service codes.
wrote:

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Tim wrote:

Fuel pressure regulator is probably shot. Pull the vac line off of it and look for gas. There should be NO gas at all.
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didn't see any gas but the vac line had a strong odor of gas. I too think this may be the problem and I sure hope so now. I went down and purchased one for $96 it will be in Monday.

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Tim wrote:

Pull the vac line off the regulator with the engine running and see if gas comes out.
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