Just for the edification of anyone Usenetting or Googling...
I've just got through a chilly February episode replacing the cabin filter in my neighbor's van. It had never been done before on this particular vehicle, so the plastic dash reinforcing strip was still there.
The Purolator instructions found here
- 8mm socket, ratchet, 3" extension.
- Larger Phillips screwdriver (not the very biggest one, but the one just down from that).
- Small flat-blade screwdriver (for CAREFUL prying).
- A very short hacksaw.
Procedure:
- Sharply pull up and remove the scuff plate from the door sill.
- Use flat-blade screwdriver to pull rubber door frame trim up so you can pop the kick panel free from the body. (This has a fuse box door in it).
- Leave glove box SHUT.
- Using Phillips screwdriver, remove black screws from hinges at bottom.
- Open glove box a bit and lift it free. You do not have to remove the rollers at this point.
- If the wide horizontal plastic bar at the bottom of the aperture is still there, you will notice that it has several slits molded into its ends. These are alignment marks for your hacksaw. Now cut the damn thing off at the marks and throw it away.
- Once the plastic bar has been cut off, you need to remove the yellow screws just outboard of your cut lines.
- Now remove ONLY the OUTBOARD yellow 8mm BOLT on the unpainted metal bar that is now exposed. You will probably have to push the dashboard plastic out of the way to get at the bolt.
- You will be completely unable to remove or reinstall the INBOARD yellow bolt on account of the center console being very much in the way.
- Therefore, you must carefully BEND the unpainted metal bar downwards until you can release the plastic door for the filter.
- To release the plastic door, use the flat-blade screwdriver to pop the top latch open.
- Change filter, then replace door. To replace, just aim it straight on, then push bottom and top in place at the same time. Don't try to hook the bottom in place first, then pivot it up to engage the top. That will not work.
- Bend unpainted metal bar back up, and bolt the outboard end in place with its yellow BOLT.
- Push down on the inboard end of the unpainted bar so you can get the inboard screw hole to line up, then reinstall the yellow SCREW.
- Using your common sense, remove the rollers from the sides of the glove box.
- Hold glove box in place and latch it.
- Install black screws in the bottom of the hinges.
- Open glove box enough to get your hands inside and reinstall the rollers.
- You're done!
Repeat in a year or so. What the hell was Honda thinking when they added this feature?