1988 honda accord lx will not start when warmed up

Please help ? My 88 honda will start in the morning drive to work or the store, turn the car off for 5 min get back in start up drive about 100 yards and die. trying to restart it, it sputters once and runs a few
seconds and dies. It won't start again until the car cools down I take it. when it cools after 30 40 min starts up and runs till i shut it off then repeats the whole cycle again. also it seems to have a problem simalar to high and low revs when warm, but it is not an LXi like the posts i read in the search it has carborator. Some one help I don't want to loose my job over car problems thanks, K__lio
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hondainminnesota wrote:

It sounds like it could be a vacuum leak. The carburetor base gasket is particularly problematic on these cars. Search the newsgroup at http://tinyurl.com/e27zy for past discussions of this problem. Also check for other sources of vacuum leaks such as the distributor vacuum advance and cracked vacuum hoses. Also check the choke operation. Post back with the results of your findings.
Eric
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to do so. The part that makes me doubt the fuel filter is actually the problem is that it doesn't bother you until you shut off the engine; usually they are the greatest problem while driving.
The symptoms do point to a fuel delivery problem, though. The engine burns off what is in the float bowl, then... nothing. The symptoms are those of vapor lock - when the fuel pump gets hot and the fuel inside vaporizes so it won't pump. The simple diagnostic for that (and a band-aid solution) is to put a wet rag on the fuel pump and see if the engine will start a minute or two later. Or you can put the wet rag on the pump when you park it and remove it when you get back in the car.
Mike
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Michael Pardee wrote:

Excellent idea, except that if the 88 is the same as the 87, the fuel pump and filter are both inside the fuel tank.
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Mike
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Okay, I found out some information today, when the car died today we found out there was no spark. we took the ignition coil off and brought it up to be tested. the stores volt meter wasn't working so a waste of time and gas. I came home and we put it back in. It started right up. Does the coil work when cold and not when warm ? or what. Is it possible. The parts store said we have to order - - 14 days from delaware. Are junkyard coils dependable? There is also an ignitor box or some thing that might manfunction, (get warm). 234.00 and everybody wants to sell me one with no returns on electrical stuff. K__lio
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hondainminnesota wrote:

yes, it's possible.

sure. one will get you out of your current predicament pretty much for certain - if your diagnosis is correct.

at a later date, but at least you're up & running.
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found an ignition coil at a yard $10.00, replaced it, it did the same thing as original problem, oh and there s fuel getting to the carborator at all times, just no spark when it gets warm i got a new distributor and rotor in case this was a problem
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hondainminnesota wrote:

cap rotor condensor leads coil power to the coil.
and not necessarily in that order.
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what about the spark pick up inside the distributor, or the reluctor and how do i check them?
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hondainminnesota wrote:

recommend you do if all the other checks are ok. assume the reluctor works, unless you can see it's physically damaged. definitely check the condensor - if it's shorted, you'll have no power to the coil. i had a weakening condensor on mine earlier in the year and the spark was getting weaker & weaker. replacing the condenser put a whole new punch back in the car.
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