1988 honda accord lx will not start when warmed up

It sounds like it could be a vacuum leak. The carburetor base gasket is particularly problematic on these cars. Search the newsgroup at

for past discussions of this problem. Also checkfor other sources of vacuum leaks such as the distributor vacuum advance andcracked vacuum hoses. Also check the choke operation. Post back with theresults of your findings. Eric

If you haven't changed the fuel filter recently, this would be a good time to do so. The part that makes me doubt the fuel filter is actually the problem is that it doesn't bother you until you shut off the engine; usually they are the greatest problem while driving.

The symptoms do point to a fuel delivery problem, though. The engine burns off what is in the float bowl, then... nothing. The symptoms are those of vapor lock - when the fuel pump gets hot and the fuel inside vaporizes so it won't pump. The simple diagnostic for that (and a band-aid solution) is to put a wet rag on the fuel pump and see if the engine will start a minute or two later. Or you can put the wet rag on the pump when you park it and remove it when you get back in the car.

Mike

Excellent idea, except that if the 88 is the same as the 87, the fuel pump and filter are both inside the fuel tank.

Ow! Sort of puts a crimp in this recommendation....

Mike

Okay, I found out some information today, when the car died today we found out there was no spark. we took the ignition coil off and brought it up to be tested. the stores volt meter wasn't working so a waste of time and gas. I came home and we put it back in. It started right up. Does the coil work when cold and not when warm ? or what. Is it possible. The parts store said we have to order - - 14 days from delaware. Are junkyard coils dependable? There is also an ignitor box or some thing that might manfunction, (get warm). 234.00 and everybody wants to sell me one with no returns on electrical stuff. K__lio

yes, it's possible.

sure. one will get you out of your current predicament pretty much for certain - if your diagnosis is correct.

go the junkyard route to start with. you may decide you want to buy new at a later date, but at least you're up & running.

found an ignition coil at a yard $10.00, replaced it, it did the same thing as original problem, oh and there s fuel getting to the carborator at all times, just no spark when it gets warm i got a new distributor and rotor in case this was a problem

things to check:

cap rotor condensor leads coil power to the coil.

and not necessarily in that order.

what about the spark pick up inside the distributor, or the reluctor and how do i check them?

the spark pickup will be replaced when you replace the cap - something i recommend you do if all the other checks are ok. assume the reluctor works, unless you can see it's physically damaged. definitely check the condensor - if it's shorted, you'll have no power to the coil. i had a weakening condensor on mine earlier in the year and the spark was getting weaker & weaker. replacing the condenser put a whole new punch back in the car.