1996 honda civic dying at stops

My sweet little 1996 Honda civic EX Coupe is dying at stops and sometimes during turns. I donít know if it is the clutch or what. As I shift down from 2nd to 1st, the battery light will flash and it will
just die as I come to a stop. Sometimes if I brake hard and give it gas it will sputter, but not die. Also, it has died out in sharp turns, where I shifted down and held in the clutch during the turn. Itís done this about 5 times in the past month. Thatís very scary.
Also, two days ago, I parked at work on an incline and went to put it reverse and the gears started grinding and I couldnít put it into any gear. Did it again yesterday. Really scary. After reading some other posts, I guess that I could say it doesnít have great pressure.
I am getting ready to get a new car, but I donít even really want to trade the Civic in like this. Furthermore, I could get about $1500 more from an private buyer, but I wouldnít want to sell it like this. Also it has 184,000 miles and has been a GREAT car. No major engine stuff.
Third I am thinking of taking the car to my hometown mechanic to check it out. He is honest, good and cheap and actually checked this car out when I was buying it from a used dealer. The mechanic had ALREADY checked it out because the dealer is his uncle. Anyways, he said he really wanted to buy the car himself, but didnít have the extra cash. It IS a great car. I think he MIGHT buy it, but that is sticky.
Any advice on any of this?
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brane wrote:

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Top up the brake fluid AND the clutch fluid. Sounds like both have been ignored. You may have a loose ground wire where your battery or engine attaches to the chassis.
'Curly'
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brane wrote:

recall replacement.
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jim beam wrote:

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If it's the ignition switch, the dealer will tell you over the phone whether your (free) recall has been performed. Usually ignition switch kills it DEAD, as if someone had removed the key. (frightening in traffic)
'Curly'
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'Curly Q. Links' wrote:

mine was behaving exactly as the op described. figured it was the weight of the keyring moving it just enough to kill it. and you can stop all this panic by carefully returning the switch to it's proper rest position. the problems comes from the return spring between "run" & "start" not being strong enough to move the internal contacts so they're fully touching, just resting against their edges. without the full contact area, little patches of the switch burn out. returning the switch my hand overcomes that little extra friction & makes full contact.
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