2001 Accord: Stalls during stop (repost)

I didn't get a reply, so I'nm reposting in case it didn't propagate... - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
My Accord (2 door, 4 cyl, 2001, manual, 65,000 Km) engine occasionally
just stops as I press the clutch to the floor (while coming to a stop). This is happening about 1 in 20 stops; sometimes two or three times in a row and then doesn't occur for a few days. In any other state, behaves perfectly, accerated briskly and cruised without fault.
For example coming up to a stop/light I'm downshifting and compressing and as it comes to final rest, the RPM just decays right to 0. (Cluth all the way in). Occasionally, the RPM will go right down to 0 and then come up to 500 - 750 by itself, but usually the engine stops.
Sometimes the car will idle at 500 instead of the more normal 750-1000 range. During this low idle speed the engine will occasionally "tremble". Sometimes it will recover to 750 RPM after this, but usually just sits at 500 unless I give it a little gas.
Car always starts without fault or delay, so sometimes if it stalls even before a complete halt (say when a light goes green before full stop) I can re-start it by letting up the clutch in 2nd or 3rd / or simply start it with the starter while rolling.
I see another similar post referring to an "igniter" problem or ignition switch problem ... but it is not failing randomly, only when I come to a stop.
No "Check engine" light.
The mechanics at the garage where I changed the oil the other day had no idea (they did the usual checks and found nothing) and suggested as a minimum that I run a bottle of injector cleaner through the tank (and I'm doing that now...). Naturally, when the mechanic went for two drives in it, it behaved perfectly.
Also they said there is no gas filter, just a strainer at the gas tank. Is that correct?
Ideas?
Thanks, Alan
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clean the EGR valve.
Alan Browne wrote:

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T L via CarKB.com wrote:

On the intake manifold?
Will WD-40 do it or is a more invasive cleaning required?
Thanks, Alan
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i'd use a good parts cleaner or carburator cleaner to get the gum all out of it. WD40 leaves a residue, which would be undesirable.
t
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Isolate the FPR (fuel pressure regulator.) The car does not need a very high pressure during high rpm. If in case the FPR refuses to reset, the idle could go low and stall. To isolate, clamp the FPR return line when the symptoms reoccur.
Isolate the EACV. Unplug it and it should not stall. If it does then it's dirty or clogged.
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Misadjusted idle speed screw can also cause stalling with the IAC disconnected. Some people attempt to correct for a poor idle by monkeying with the screw instead of fixing whatever was causing the poor idle in the first place.
Even when correctly set up, the car will usually stall with no IAC when less than fully-warm.
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TeGGeR wrote:

The problem at hand only occurs when fully warm. I'm going to heed the advice regarding the EGV first as I've corroborated it elsewhere, then try other approaches.
Cheers, Alan
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Do you mean to say "EGR valve"? There's no such part as "EGV".
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TeGGeR wrote:

As I typed I put a "V" for valve. EGR is what I meant.
Cheers, Alan
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