no, they're normal lefty loosey. recommend you use the correct size
bit, [#3 pt, not #2] and an impact driver.
you can also drill them out and forget about them. they have no
structural purpose - they simply hold the disk in place until the brake
caliper can be fitted in factory. the wheel lug nuts do the actual
On Sunday, December 16, 2012 1:47:46 PM UTC-8, jack dempsey wrote:
If these are rusted/hard to turn, there is a tool you can buy, to help remove
them. It's a special screwdriver, all metal, designed to be hit with a hammer.
When you hit it with a hammer, it both presses in and turns it.
I bought one, used it, it works. Although it turns out, my screws weren't rusted
and not that hard to remove.
Called Impact Driver, as Jim said.
and Yes, use a very big screwdriver, #3
I have replaced the rear rotor on the same vehicle, same problem with
the screws. Bought an impact driver from Autozone for $10.00.
those things are crap. you may as well use a screwdriver and a hammer -
they work just the same.
in reality, you should avoid hammering the hub because of potential
bearing damage. you should therefore use the type of rotary impact
driver discussed here:
Worked just fine for me.
A screwdriver and a hammer will not apply torque to the screw as the
tool is struck, which this tool does. Also if there is the potential
to damage the wheel bearing, surely the hammer and screwdriver would
be just as likely to inflict such damage, probably more so as there is
no torque component with the hammer/screwdriver.
sure. a screwdriver and hammer will work fine for you too.
correct, but it successfully breaks the "stiction" that is stopping the
screw from turning.
do how much torque do you think one of these tools applies? have you
ever taken one apart? have you seen how the hammer rests on the anvil
where there's no possibility of any torque being generated from a blow?
absolutely, which is precisely /why/ i'm saying to use the proper tool,
not one of these mickey mouse pieces of crap.
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