2009 Honda Accord Engine Oil Change Guide

I just performed the first oil change on our new 2009 Honda Accord LX sedan. The odometer read 5,800 miles and the oil life meter was at 20%, so I figured it was about time.
It's a fairly simple procedure that can save you money and even time once you become familiar with it.
I took pictures while I changed the oil and wrote up a quick guide. Here's the page - http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Honda-Accord-Engine-Oil-Change-Guide
I'm sure most of you could do this with your eyes closed, but hopefully it will help some of the new owners out there.
Cheers, Paul Michaels Ft. Lauderdale, FL
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Nice, but a few points need to be made:
1) The jack stand is not just a nice thing to have for "extra safety", it is ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL. Do NOT get under that 3,000 car with it supported only by an oil-filled jack. Hospitals and coffins are dreadful places to end up in. Hydraulic jacks DO fail, and can do so suddenly.
2) The oil filler cap does NOT need to be removed when you drain. The PCV system's crankcase breather pipe allows more than enough air to prevent any sort of vacuum from forming.
3) 5W-20 motor oil might be correct for your very new car, but many others require 5W-30. Use of 5W-20 will cause bearing damage on Hondas not designed to use it.
4) If you're going to be using aftermarket filters (a practice I personally discourage), you need to make absolutely certain the old aftermarket gasket has come off with the old aftermarket filter. If the old gasket stays behind, the new oil will barf out all over the road next time you drive the car. OEM oil filters won't do this.
5) That drain bolt has a specific torque setting. Just reefing a Honda drain bolt tight risks eventually stripping the threads in the pan. You give no torque figure, and likely had no idea there even was one. Plus you should use a new washer.
6) The final oil level should be all the way up to the "FULL" mark, not half-way between "FULL" and "ADD".
--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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