89 Accord Battery Light Problem

Well, I am posting this as a question, hopefully some of you fine folks can help me figure out this problem I have been having. I thank you ahead of time for you replies.
I have an 89 Accord, roughly 145,000 miles. I have owned the car about a month. The problem starts there, I have regularly had to pour gas directly into the carburetor in order for it to start. This was very strange, because after about 4-5 times, the car would finally start and run. So, I thought maybe it had something to do with the choke heater or electric choke actuatoror maybe the fuel pump was weakening.
Then, on a recent long trip, the alternator light came on. It did not appear all the time, only intermittently, and when it would come on, I could depress the clutch pedal and rev the engine up over 3500 rpm and the light would go out. Eventually, it acted as though it was starved for fuel, like the fuel pump was going out.
I removed my alternator (oh, what fun!) and took it to be tested at both Autozone and O'Reillys. Both tests indicated the alternator was good. I re-installed the alternator, and then took the battery to be tested. It also tested good. I was ready to pull my hair out!
I got on here to read about other who might have had the same problem, and I checked the Haynes Manual for my car, and basically I am at a loss. If the battery and alternator are good, then why would the light come on?
I noticed the alternator and the fuel pump are on the same fuse. So, today, I installed a new fuel pump. It no longer acts as if it is starved for fuel, but the battery light now comes on again. Again the light will go out above 3500 rpm, but comes back on as the engine returns to idle. Can someone please help diagnose this ghostly problem?
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I really would not trust Autozone, for one, for this.
What is the age of the alternator? Is it OEM? Brushes are a candidate for replacement, given the intermittent appearance of the alternator/charging system warning light.
How old and what is the make of the battery?
Do try the five quick checks I list at site http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id13.html , and report back.

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Well, I drove it again today after charging the battery all night. It ran fine, so I used the heater fan to warm things up inside. (I am in Oklahoma City, and we have been having some really icy weather.) When I started out, the alternator light was not on. But, eventually, the ominous little red light came back on. I made it to work, and it sat for a couple hours, and started fine. On the way back, it finally died, and would not start. I fooled around with it, praying it would start, and tried to wiggle the wires to the alternator, just in case I had a short.
Well, then I discover there is some sort of vacuum switch broken off. It is a plug like, cylindrical thingy threaded into the intake manifold, directly beneath the carburetor. It has two hoses connected to it, and it was dangling there. There was a metal pin, (it looked like a nail) sticking out of the plug part that is threaded into the intake manifold. I have no idea what it is, but I dropped the pin into the engine compartment, and I think it landed on the frame somewhere, or worse into the snow. I pushed the car back a bit to look for it, but no luck.
So, tomorrow, I am gonna go to a local pull-it-yourself salvage yard and get a replacement part for this broken thing and put it in and see what happens. It may not be the problem, but its worth a shot. I will keep you posted!
Elle wrote:

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So the story goes... I finally got the clear weather to take my car to Oreillys and they tested the alternator and battery with the engine running. The tested said the alternator had low output. So with that, I replaced the alternator and the battery just to be safe. I also replaced the broken temperature probe, and pretty much any other thing that was electrically wrong. Bulbs in the front blinker and the marker light. So, after it is all said and done, I drove it and so far the alternator light is not coming on like it was. I thank you all for writing and giving me the advice. If the light comes on again, I may just take it to the dealer and have them trouble shoot it.

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madman1991 wrote:

If the system seems ok, but the light is on, check the #8 fuse, and the
W/G wire from the relay box to the alternator. I'd then check the running voltages to see if normal. IE: an operating alternator should show about 13.9-15.1 volts if you measure the battery voltage while running and all loads turned on. IE: headlights, defogger, blower motor, etc. If it does, it should be ok. Is the belt loose? If the light is still on, disconnect the choke heater connection "carb engine" . If the light is now out, the heater is shorted. If the light is still on, turn engine off and disconnect the alternator connector. Turn on the ignition. If the light is out, the voltage regulator is bad. If the light is still on, turn off switch and pull the 7 pin EFE connector. Turn on ignition switch. If the light is out, the EFE unit is shorted or grounded. If the light is still on , there is a short or ground in the Bu/W wire to one of the above parts. What is kinda weird is yours seem more rpm related than vibration, etc.. In a case like that, I would first check the belt, and then double check the alternator and regulator. But a voltage check while running should give you a pretty good idea if it's working. Did the two places also check the regulator? I woud think so being it's a part of the alternator. MK
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