91 Accord - screeches when first moves

Lately the Accord (105k) has a screeching noise when first driven - it lasts 5 seconds or so and varies with the speed of the car. Then it goes away. I guess a belt? It's overdue for a general big maintenance
job. I couldn't see anything wrong with the belts. Timing belt was done about a year and a half back.
I first noticed it when it was raining out, but now it does it when it's dry. Not all the time, maybe half the time.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Congratulations...you just bought yourself a new $300 distributor.
Pull the rotor cap of the distributor and see if there is red rusty dust around the inside of the cover. Telltale sign. The outer distributor bearing goes bad, squeals on the shaft. If you catch it in the early stages you might save yourself from overheating and destroying the ignitor. That will save you like $90. In the later stages it may result in the rotor button melting and the engine will not run, or may be out of time. Spraying a little bit of thin oil on the bearing may rusult in a temporary reduction in noise, but it will not stop it from having to be replaced. I could be wrong in my guess, but the exact thing happened in my '92. It quit running on me because the rotor button melted and spun nearly 180 degrees around. Be careful if you try tightening the belts; if you overtighten them you may also destroy the harmonic balancer pulley on the crank. Ask me how I know that...

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 30 May 2008 16:04:08 -0400, "Net Doctor"

How do you...
The distributor looks newish. What I don't like is that there seems to be a bit of oil coming from two of the spark plug holes. I think I'll have someone take a look.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
dgk wrote:

before you panic, check the alternator, power steering and a/c belts. if loose, it's typical for them to squeal on startup, then quiet down, just as you describe. failed bearings generally continue to squeal as long as they're being used.
and you can't destroy an "harmonic balancer" on a 91 accord - it doesn't have one, it's an ordinary pulley wheel.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
jim beam wrote: > before you panic, check the alternator, power steering and a/c belts. if

======================= There's a picture of an older one here (from Jim Beam), which seems to confirm that there's no internal harmonic balancer on them... My '97 CR-V certainly has one built in to the pulley.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I beg to differ..it most cetainly does have: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode 67195&parttypeU12&a=FRc1167195k292243
a 2-piece pully separated by a rubber dividor. I never said anything about it being internal. And it will fly apart if you over tighten the belt. I 'know' that because, at the advice of someone in the forums who knew nothing of the cronic issues with the distributor bearing, I kept tightening the belt. Eventually the outer pulley separated from the inner hub. Made a mess of things down there too.
If it hadn't been for the car quitting completely and discovering that the spark was nearly 180 degrees out I might have put it in the shop. It occurred to me to pull the distrib cap to confirm that the rotor was turning when I found it was full of red rusty debris. I could see that it had melted on the center hub and spun around.(see link at bottom) If you get a handle on it before it gets too hot it may not destroy the ignitor module in there...it was too late for mine. I think if you pull the distrib cap off, pop off the rotor button, and then pull off that dustcover
http://isomerica.net/~dpn/blogimages/distrib_dustcover.jpg
in there you can get a good look at the outer bearing.
I apologize for jumping to the conclusion that it was definitely your distributor, and possibly inducing panic. JB was right to point that out.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.editAlbumPhoto&albumID99359&imageID4114973&MyToken 022eb9-ec20-4c77-bb53-f00c3ef914d2
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Net Doctor wrote:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode 67195&parttypeU12&a=FRc1167195k292243
you're right that a true rubber-separated balancer will disintegrate if over-tightened and run for a long time. but the 91 accord doesn't have one, regardless of any generic pics or names used in a third-party catalog. check the honda catalog.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1 CORD&catcgry291&catcgry3MR+DX&catcgry4=KL4AT&catcgry5=PISTON-CRANKSHAFT
"PULLEY, CRANKSHAFT", not "balancer, crankshaft". the engine's got its own internal balancer shafts for that job, items 11 & 12.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.editAlbumPhoto&albumID99359&imageID4114973&MyToken 022eb9-ec20-4c77-bb53-f00c3ef914d2

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
JB..it's a 2 piece pulley, inner and outer hub separated by rubber. Call it what we will..it will fly apart with too much pressure on it.
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Net Doctor wrote:

yes, the 2-piece ones will, but the 91 accord is a single-piece, all steel, pulley wheel, not a balancer. maybe you're thinking toyota?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
/sarcasm on
My gosh..since you put it that way..it becomes clear to me that I was mistaken.
Apparently that wasn't a '92 Honda Accord that I put a $300 distributor on. Perhaps I put a new harmonic balancer pulley on a Camry because my original one flew apart. I must have been driving a Toyota Camry all those 225,000 miles. In fact, I'm betting all 6 of my Honda Accords are really Camrys under the skin. In fact..oh my gosh, I hadn't even considered this!...maybe, just maybe..I haven't really been working for Honda for the last 21 years, but just showing up at a plant that says Honda on the front of the building when really...(OMG!) my pay checks were underwritten by Toyota.
Them bastards!
It is amazing how crystal clear things become when somebody lays it out there for you in black and white.
/sarcasm off
JB: I respect the fact that you are an active participant in the discussions that take place in this forum, and I am certain that you have and will continue to provide many of the users here with tons of useful information, that will ultimately save them time and money. I acknowledge that I was wrong in my first reply to have risked inducing panic when, in fact, I could have been wrong about the OP's symptoms being a bad distributor. But dude...you are contradicting my statements which are an accurate, factual account of my very own experiences with my very own ('92) Honda Accord. Fact: The root cause of my squeal was a worn-out bearing in the distributor. This was a common problem for that generation, as confirmed by the tech I spoke with at the FACTORY SERVICE CENTER. Fact: Incrementally tightening my belt put extreme pressure on the 2-piece pulley bolted to the crank, which ultimately caused it to come apart. The only part remaining bolted to the crank was the inner hub, which had an outer rubber ring around it. Fact: The new harmonic balancer, which I bought from the FACTORY SERVICE CENTER was a 2-piece pulley, with a rubber divider between the 2 steel parts. Call it a pulley; call it a balancer...I don't care. It did and will come apart, the outer pulley from the inner hub.
I respectfully give you the last post regarding this diference of opinion.
Doc
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Net Doctor wrote:

indeed, it is a common failure - i'm simply saying that the symptom, squealing that then disappears, is /much/ more likely to be a belt, and given that belt squeal is so cheap and easy to fix, it should be looked at first!
as for cause, consistent squeal is more likely to be bearing. stopping to listen for the source with the hood up is going to isolate which is which.

indeed - that's what happens if a balancer wheel like that is old, the rubber has fatigued, and the belt is over-tightened.

as i said before, if it's two wheels with rubber, it /is/ a balancer - no rubber, it's not. don't assume i'm assuming you can't differentiate - but many /other/ people can't and don't, including parts suppliers. as for its existence on a 91 accord, i guess i'll have to take pics when i'm next in a junkyard

eventually, yes, that'll happen. not so much with new ones as the rubber hasn't fatigued.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 31 May 2008 23:02:42 -0700, jim beam
It was apparently, good news, a loose belt. But it did need rear brakes and a new gasket to stop oil from leaking out the spark plugs and messing up the ignition wires, plus new ignition wires. And the inspection. So, around $500. It's worth doing to keep it running another year I guess.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
dgk wrote:

i'd highly suspect the necessity of the rear brakes - honda drum brakes wear at a /very/ low rate. and i'd suspect the need to do your shocks too, frankly. it's not unknown for unscrupulous shops to spray oil on them to convince customers of the need to open their wallets, and honda shocks last a /long/ time.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 02 Jun 2008 06:01:44 -0700, jim beam

I can't remember when the rear brakes were done but I did hear a slight grinding noise lately. The last time I had it inspected the pads were looking pretty thin.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
dgk wrote:

grinding is usually dust. removal of dust usually solves.
drum brakes have shoes, not pads. he said pedantically.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 31 May 2008 21:52:41 -0400, Net Doctor wrote:

JB doesn't take into account 'experience'. If he doesn't know it, well, it just isn't knowledge!
And after looking over a few of his answers, I'd seek a second opinion before ripping out an engine that needs a water pump or something. Guy appears to be a shot-gunner...it sounds like this, so it must be this. It's just too bad if it's not and was something as simple as a screeching belt...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 31 May 2008 10:51:19 -0700, jim beam wrote:

Maybe he's just thinking...
You seem to have trouble with that.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.