Car is basic civic. California 1300 fuel injected. No frills
Ran fine yesterday today quit dead in the road. Low miles no oil leaks,
Has fresh gas
Seems to have weak spark
I have a factory manual for an 87 version of the same car so I have been
There are so many things it could be. I don't want to just keep trying
Any help would be excellent. I can't afford to miss work
How old are the distributor igniter and the distributor
Same question for the plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap
It's very common for Civics of this vintage to have a
distributor problem (or problem a bit downstream or upstream
of it the distributor) of some kind. Freshen up all these
parts, and everything often goes back to normal.
Also, how old are the air filter and fuel filter?
There's an online manual for 91 Civics under the free repair
guides at www.autozone.com .
www.tegger.com/hondafaq has a section on no start conditions
that might be helpful.
Original owner, 1991 Civic, 172k miles and running well.
Careful. I would call this a known problem with circa 1990
Hondas. The threads for this screw, and in the distributor
shaft, are likely stripped. The screw is likely to keep
working itself free. Carry tools to re-attach it in the back
of your car. You can try Loc-tite but my recollection is
this won't be enough.
This happened on my 91 Civic in 2002. The screw kept coming
loose over roughly a year long period. The dealer wasn't
clear about what was happening, hence it went on longer than
Ultimately, on the advice of another here who had had this
happen, I drilled a hole through rotor and shaft and used a
cotter pin. That worked fine. Post if you want more info on
The alternative is to buy a new distributor housing, which
of course will have a new shaft. Probably a good idea to
replace the housing at least once in the life of the car,
since bearings, wire harnesses, etc. wear. I bought a new
housing in 2003.
You're talking about Vibratite, not just plain Locktite, right?
There's a big difference between the two when it comes to dealing with
shock and vibe.
You may want to see if you can get away with a slightly longer machine
screw; every thread turn helps.
You are all very sharp
The threads didn't seem to be stripped but I understand.
I used a slightly too long screw that would dig into the soft metal part
of the rotor.
Car runs great and I drove for about an hour.
I will carry some tools that I know at least will get me home should it
Thanx so much ya'll.
I regained some of my faith in the kindness of strangers
found that Vibratite is the stuff to use to make sure machine screws
don't walk out.
Here's a link describing the stuff:
On Thu, 8 Dec 2005 09:10:30 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org (daniel
Had that happen to me too, i was in the middle of overtaking a
truck+camper trailer when it suddenly died. I just retapped the whole
for a slightly bigger screw, and used loctite to hold it in (can't
remmeber which loctite though, was part of a big grab bag of small
tubes a rep gave me years ago, all empty and thrown out now) Been
running fine ever since.
email@example.com (daniel peterman) wrote in
does the motor sound different when cranking it?
Like a faster "whirr" than the normal slower cranking?
If so,it could be a broken timing belt.
My Civic CVCC died suddenly that way.
Just died as if I switched the ignition off.
Fortunately,it was not a "no-clearance" valve train where the pistons
damage the valves.
Then there's fuel supply problems like the infamous "main relay" that is
easily fixed by resoldering it's PCB.
Then there's ignition problems like the "ignitor" or ignition coil
www.tegger.com is a good site to check,lots of good info.
And a Haynes manual only costs about $20.
Go to www.tegger.com and go to the no start condition. Here are some
questions to get us in the ball park:
You've indeed tested for spark, I take it? I ask because, If you're
just assuming weak spark, we're just guessing and you'll get
suggestions with a dozen things to replace.
How do you know it is weak? (if weak, check wires, cap, rotor or coil)
Are you getting gas? Measure across the fuel tank with a voltmeter. You
should see 12V appear and then disappear (maybe 1 sec) when you turn
the key to 'on'. You should see 12V with the car starting. If not,
check the supply voltage to the main relay. (could be your main relay
or ignition switch)
The '87 Civic is a very different animal than the '91 Civic. It would be
best to get a manual for the correct model and year. http://www.helminc.com
sells factory service manuals. They're a bit on the expensive side but are
an excellent source of information (one thing to note though is that they're
written for the professional tech with the expectation that you already know
how to work on your car).
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