í92 Accord autotrans wonít shift out of 2nd

I have a 92 Accord LX automatic that wonít shift out of 2nd gear when in drive (up or down). It started off fine this morning, but before I got out of the neighborhood, I noticed it wouldnít up-shift, then when
I let of the gas, it didnít downshift. Came to a stop, idled fine (TC dissengaged properly), but when I accelerated from a stop, still in 2nd. Shifting manually made no difference. Then I stopped, put it in park, turned off the ignition, restarted, no change. Park, reverse and neutral are all fine. Soloniod? Computer? Iím more familiar with manual trannies, so Iím stumped.
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Common problem. It's either a shift solenoid or the Transmission Control Module (TCM). Not particularly expensive.
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Tegger

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By the way, is your "S" light or "D4" light flashing?
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"motsco_" wrote:

150k, Iíve changed it twice in the 40k that Iíve owned it, last was about 3k ago. Lately itís been in the mid 70s to low 80s; no cause for concern.
"Tegger" wrote:

No flashing, but the íD4í light was on constant (even in park/reverse/neutral).
I disconnected the battery, and everything went back to normal; tranny shifts fine, so Iím guessing not likely anything internal. I only drove it a couple of miles though, so tomorrowís 40 mile commute is the test...
I was a bit hastey backing out and going into drive when I left this morning, so Iím hoping that might have just triggered the TCM to go into limp mode or something. Weíll see.
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Update:
This morning the light was back on, and it was in a fixed gear again. However, this time it allowed me to manually shift into 1st, and all the other lights came on with their respective gears, even though D4 remained on as well. Iím leaning toward the TCM.
"gotdurt" wrote: > [quote:ef250cb948="motsco_"] > What's the mileage and who last changed the tranny fluid for > you? > It's probably the ECU has blown a capacitor, but is it cool or > HOT where > you are? > > 'Curly'[/quote:ef250cb948] > > 150k, I've changed it twice in the 40k that I've owned it, > last was about 3k ago. Lately it's been in the mid 70s to low > 80s; no cause for concern. > > [quote:ef250cb948="Tegger"] > By the way, is your "S" light or "D4" light flashing? > [/quote:ef250cb948] > No flashing, but the 'D4' light was on constant (even in > park/reverse/neutral). > > I disconnected the battery, and everything went back to > normal; tranny shifts fine, so I'm guessing not likely > anything internal. I only drove it a couple of miles though, > so tomorrow's 40 mile commute is the test... > > I was a bit hastey backing out and going into drive when I > left this morning, so I'm hoping that might have just > triggered the TCM to go into limp mode or something. We'll > see.
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You can't "lean" towards anything. You need to get the thing looked at properly or risk spending tons of cash for nothing. A competent shop needs to do pressure checking and other things to narrow the problem down.
There are three things that can cause your symptom: 1) Modulator valve stuck 2) 1-2 shift solenoid stuck 3) Clutch pressure control valve stuck.
As well, check the oil screen for debris.
These things are frequently caused by poor maintenance, namely insufficient fluid changes.
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"Tegger" wrote:

Unfortunately, in my experience, there arenít many competent shops; my own trouble shooting analysis via symptom logic is better that what ímechanicsí will do.
The last time I had a shop troubleshoot a vehicle (against my own good judgement), the bill ran up to $3600 for an 89 RX7! Had a minor enginefire (caused by an alternator), so insurance had me take it to the dealer. Shouldnít have been a big deal; I couldíve done it myself, but State Farm was footing the bill... The dealer couldnít get it right. The first time I picked it up it had no power, so I took it back. I told them that I though it seemed ignition related. So, since Iím just an ignorant yahoo, they started their "diagnosis", and ended up replacing the injectors, ECM, trottle position sensor, etc... after months of picking it up and taking it back, I finally said íscrew ití and ordered an ignitor off of ebay for $20. Plugged it in and the car was fixed.
Then, a few months ago, my manual trans in my Isuzu Trooper went south. I sourced another one, and had a transmission shop do the swap because of time restraints. I got it back and after fixing some other issues with thier installation (improperly installed shifter, poorly bled clutch), I got pulled over because my reverse lights were on... so I crawled under it and discovered that the reverse sensor was connected to the second gear connector and visa-versa... I also discovered that the wiring was routed wrong, and some of the wires were in a bind. Then, wile working on that, I discovered that the wiring loom was routed inside of the heat shield, and had been burning against the exhaust manifold!
So hopefully now you can see why I am reluctant to just turn it over to a shop....
Anyway, I tried to pull codes last night, and the D4 light wouldnít flash, it just stayed on. I pulled the fuse to reset the TCM; light went off, tranny operated properly again. Thurned the car off, then back on, and the D4 light was back on, and stuck in gear...
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Update:
I opened it up, and the board looked clean. All of the other symptoms were there though, so I ordered a reman TCM. That solved my problem, but now I has some odd new symptoms - revlovling around harsh, late shifting. The new D4 light isnít coming on at all now either, so Iím going to send it back for another. At least I know now that the innitial problem was indead the TCM.
"gotdurt" wrote: > [quote:b3836c8f93="Tegger"] > You can't "lean" towards anything. You need to get the thing > looked at > properly or risk spending tons of cash for nothing. A > competent shop needs > to do pressure checking and other things to narrow the problem > down. > > There are three things that can cause your symptom: > 1) Modulator valve stuck > 2) 1-2 shift solenoid stuck > 3) Clutch pressure control valve stuck. > [/quote:b3836c8f93] > Unfortunately, in my experience, there aren't many competent > shops; my own trouble shooting analysis via symptom logic is > better that what 'mechanics' will do. > > The last time I had a shop troubleshoot a vehicle (against my > own good judgement), the bill ran up to $3600 for an 89 RX7! > Had a minor enginefire (caused by an Autozone alternator), so > insurance had me take it to the dealer. Shouldn't have been a > big deal; I could've done it myself, but State Farm was > footing the bill... The dealer couldn't get it right. The > first time I picked it up it had no power, so I took it back. > I told them that I though it seemed ignition related. So, > since I'm just an ignorant yahoo, they started their > "diagnosis", and ended up replacing the injectors, ECM, > trottle position sensor, etc... after months of picking it up > and taking it back, I finally said 'screw it' and ordered an > ignitor off of ebay for $20. Plugged it in and the car was > fixed. > > Then, a few months ago, my manual trans in my Isuzu Trooper > went south. I sourced another one, and had a > [i:b3836c8f93]transmission[/i:b3836c8f93] shop do the swap > because of time restraints. I got it back and after fixing > some other issues with thier installation (improperly > installed shifter, poorly bled clutch), I got pulled over > because my reverse lights were on... so I crawled under it and > discovered that the reverse sensor was connected to the second > gear connector and visa-versa... I also discovered that the > wiring was routed wrong, and some of the wires were in a bind. > Then, wile working on that, I discovered that the wiring loom > was routed inside of the heat shield, and had been burning > against the exhaust manifold! > > So hopefully now you can see why I am reluctant to just turn > it over to a shop.... > > Anyway, I tried to pull codes last night, and the D4 light > wouldn't flash, it just stayed on. I pulled the fuse to reset > the TCM; light went off, tranny operated properly again. > Thurned the car off, then back on, and the D4 light was back > on, and stuck in gear...
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