93 Civic Batter Light and Speedometer

Check out the alternator first. The battery light is telling you the alternator is probably not keeping your battery charged. Most places that sell alternators will do a quick test in the car.

Mike

The warning lamp with the battery icon in it is actually the "malfunction, charging system" light.

See about the middle of

for some quick voltage checks you can do that might tell you more. Congrats on your new Civic. How many miles? Do you have any maintenance records on it?

"Jim" wrote

Thanks for you help everyone.

Definitely need a new alternator. Please advise on which ones are good, how to install and which repair manual to buy.

Mileage is 133K, no maintenance records. I will see if I can contact the previous owner to get his feedback on the car.

Jim

Elle wrote:

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I notice the troubleshooting part mentions 'warmed up', but doesn't seem to stress this important fact I came across the other day:

"a no-charging system may not be the alternator. Honda has been using an ELD (electrical load device) relay for the last 10 years or so. Honda uses PCM strategy to control the voltage regulator. We have learned to let the engine run a few minutes before checking alternator output (the PCM lets the initial start up to stabilize before turning the alternator on, reducing the load on the engine). Honda uses the ELD relay to control alternator output -- no load, no work at idle."

I found it when I was searching 'honda ELD' with google.

The OP may need brushes only, not a whole alternator, also.

'Curly'

The alternator belt is missing and the alternator does not turn by hand so I assume the alternator is seized up.

Can I get a rebuilt alternator?

Thanks again,

Jim

'Curly Q. L> >

"Jim" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

I'm sure most of your local auto stores sell rebuilt alternators,along with the more pricey Honda ones. You can get an idea of their price and availability by shopping online,Advance Auto,NAPA are a couple of good sites.

Some models may be difficult for accessing the alternator without removing a drive axle half-shaft and dropping the alt. from below the car..

it requires removal of the drivers side axle. unless you toy with the master cylinder which leads to way too many problems.

Thanks - I was afraid of that.

h> it requires removal of the drivers side axle. unless you toy with the master

"'Curly Q. Links'" wrote E

I'll study this further and potentially make revisions. Little time right now--taking another automotive course for fun. Thanks, though!

Not sure if the above is for me, but I think that point is well covered at my site.

Haven't some people here reported putting a jack under the oil pan and raising it a little provides the necessary clearance?

Jim there are free online manuals at

and that might help you.

No alternator belt?? That does not make sense.

"hondaman" wrote

"'Curly Q. Links'" wrote

PCM = performance control module?

The PCM prevents the alternator from turning on electrically until the engine is warmed up?

What is he trying to say with the "no load, no work at idle" statement?

I found the original quotation by a guy posting under "Mouse7088" at another forum but still can't quite follow it.

Pulse Code Modulation. I think it is a misnomer for Pulse Width Modulation. Think "switch mode" and your mind will be free....

Dunno - I never figured out what the ELD was for.

"Michael Pardee" wrote

I wish. I never had a good course in electronics.

Shoot.