for sure, i'd make sure i took it to a "test only" station, but when the
op "witnesses" a number of things that are clearly wrong:
"i do not remeber testers ever having trouble getting a good tach
reading in the past. They always just plopped that paddle up on the dash"
"RPM............2718" vs. "i peeked in at the tach which up around
i seriously doubt his story.
Its a CHEAP test, and there's certainly reason to question the first
test (yes you CAN screw it up... its not easy, but it can be done, and I
mentioned one way- getting the tach pickup positioned incorrectly so
that its off by a factor of 2).
If this were an OBD-II system resetting a code repeatedly, I'd agree
with you 100%, just fix the problem. But it WAS a suspect test procedure.
It is NOT "standard practice". You replace the sensor once it stops
behaving as it should.
You're way high on HC and NOx on both years' tests, but the '09 CO of over
9% may be just a one-time glitch. It could simply be that the cat was
insufficiently warmed up for both tests.
You don't have EGR, so that won't be an issue. Have you ever checked the
basic ignition timing? How old are your plug wires/cap/rotor/plugs?
Don't know. In my area you can have it tested any number of times until it
passes. I think you have to pay for each retest.
If you randomly replace parts with no success you'll be out at least that
First thing to do is re-book the test, but at a different station. Make
sure you're the very first car on the machine for that day. Take the car
for a long drive (at least an hour) and time your arrival at the station
with just enough time to hand in your key. TURN THE ENGINE OFF; DO NOT
ALLOW IT TO IDLE. They should have the vehicle on the dyno within fifteen
minutes at the outside. This will ensure the cat is up to temp and as
efficient as it can be, which is critical.
IF the car fails again, even when properly prepped, THEN you start doing
troubleshooting. The results from this test, combined with the results from
the other tests, should be enough for a competent tech to daignose the car.
Maybe. Those cars can be sensitive to test procedures.
I always let them run @ 2500 for 3 or 4 minutes before testing, I had
a much easier time getting them to pass that way.
I hate to sound nebulous, but... maybe..
O2, map, coolant sensor, tight valves.. there possibilities are almost
Er.. um.. maybe ;)
Yes, I have seen plenty of O2's last a long time.
As another poster suggested, it's time to get your car someplace
Ask your friends, call the BBB, call AAA.. find someone with a track
record of 'very high quality'.
Dont shotgun it with cheap parts, it may work, probably wont.
At least 3/4's of the problems I see mentioned on this board stem from
someone trying to save money....
Good luck, and I hope this helps.
The original was of super high quality if it lasted over 200,000
Why even try another brand?
From my experience, denso's, bosch etc are all a crap shoot.
If you install it and it doesnt work your only recourse is to exchange
it and try another piece of crap and cross your fingers. Maybe they'll
refund your money.. maybe not.
If you value your time as I do, only use good parts, and never as a
What happen, what i did and PASS results follow.
First emmisions test failed. Tester had a difficult time geting a
stable tach reading.
Car died while driving two days later, would not re-start, or
fire. Car had a very weak spark (as tested with my hand).
Tested coil with Ohm meter at ~ 8 kOhms it was in replace range.
I replaced ignition coil, replaced plug wires, I cleaned the
rotor and cap terminals, I changed the plugs, replaced the PCV
valve and put in a new engine air filter. Then i took for my
2009 **( RE-TEST )** numbers
========================== ....................25/25 test............50/15
HC ppm .........60....................54
CO %.............0.13 .................0.15
CO + CO2 %....15.1...............15.1
So not too bad
Thanks to groups for helping.
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