93 Honda Civic Mileage gone bad

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The old plugs were perfect and all the same.
Tires are properly inflated, brakes are not dragging. I also just replaced the front rotors and pads.

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complaining the mileage dropped about 10-20% after the most recent service, and another suggested the parking brake had been adjusted too tight. Bingo! (I am also assuming the slide pins were lubed during the brake work. Once I overlooked that bit and received one of life's little lessons.) If you have verified the brakes are not dragging, the parking brake isn't it... but the lubrication state still could be.
Mike
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Michael Pardee wrote:

the front! but it's a good thought - check the brakes - especially as decreased gas mileage seems to coincide with recent brake service!!!
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Update: Could be completely unrelated. The PO told me about this very intermittent problem and this is only the second time I've run into it.
The car doens't start after it's been warmed up. It turns over great... but just doesn't run. The previous time, It started after several attempts (30 sec or so).
This time, I had warmed it up and then did a compression test. Then, when going to start it again, it just won't run. I've checked the usual stuff (sparks plugged in, injectors plugged in). I even tried cranking for 20 seconds to see if the ECU would register something faulty. Nothing. My guess is it will start after cooling down.... why though?
Could I have messed something up ignition wise by cranking with the plug wires removed?
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fired up without a load. My son zapped his coil just using the starter to "bump" the distributor to the proper position. The result can be seen at http://tegger.com/hondafaq/badsecondary/internal-arcing.html D'oh!
The initial problem sounds like a bad "main relay" - see http://tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#startrun for the straight scoop on that.
Mike
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You are right. The secondary coil shorted someplace and is now only half the resistance it should be.
I'll post the best price when I find it.
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I purchased an Ignition Coil online at
http://www.thepartsbin.com /
$46.50 + Distributor O-Ring ($3) + some random $1 thing to push me over the $50 free shipping mark.
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Mike
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After market, hmm. Let the group know how it goes. I'm afraid the aftermarket coils I've had did not last nearly as long as the original, OEM one.
Way to troubleshoot!
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Top Notch Shipping. Ordered itSunday night, recieved it Tuesday morning.
Anyway, it looks exactly like the coil that was in there already, it measures in spec (resistances of the coil), and has worked fine now that I've put it all back together.
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Well.. I seem to have found the problem.
It was, as many have suspected, an old Oxygen Sensor. I was getting about 25ish MPG, and then I replaced the O2 sensor and now I have gone about 150 miles with the needle still above the 3/4 tank mark. I'll let you know the actual mileage when I finish the tank.
Thanks to everyone.
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a while now. I'm coming to believe there are a lot of cars that are suffering degraded O2 sensor performance that haven't degraded enough to set the "check engine" light. My daughter's '93 Accord with 220K miles is a prime example. It doesn't make sense to assume a sensor that old is still working well. I hope to replace that one this spring - it's just too chilly now.
Mike
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Michael Pardee wrote:

cars older than 1996 when OBD2 went into effect might *never* trigger the check engine light. i know my moms 1993 eagle summit never did.
im sure someone here with more knowledge would know whether itll even blink a code if/when checked.
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Yeah but I may have messed him over by casually mentioning my temptation "to pull off the ignition wire of the suspect cylinder (with the suspect fuel injector) and see if engine power sounds like it goes down." Shoulda been more complete; told him to follow a manual or Tegger's site on this point (which I believe mentions your experience on this, Mike); warned him about cranking the engine with any wire disconnected. It may very well have cost him the coil as well as time lost.
Gotta come clean, so maybe, with enough repetition in the archives someone else won't have this happen.
Sorry Danny.
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you have convinced me to change mine as well (probably i'll check it first then change) as i am sporting a '93 civic si @ 195k with original sensor
btw is the accord having any oil trouble ? i am loosing about 1/2 qt between oil changes ?
was ther a final consensus on where to get good quality O2 sensors ?
robb
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Re oxygen sensors--

How much times is that in miles and months?
Doesn't sound too serious, but I'd still be checking for leakage around the valve cover; under the distributor; and into the spark plug tubes. How old's the valve cover gasket and the several other seals in the valve cover (spark plug tubes, oil filler cap, rubbery washers for the hold-down bolts)? Ever had the distributor O-ring seal (IIRC) replaced?
I did all of these not long ago, and my 173k mile, 1991 Civic's oil consumption seems way down, from about 1/2 quart between oil changes. Plus the exterior of the engine and the spark plug tubes are cleaner. :-)

In 2004 for my 1991 Civic, I used https://www.automedicsupply.com/ for an OEM oxygen sensor at a significantly better price than the usual online OEM parts sites. Good service. The sensor seems fine--still getting 40 mpg most of the year on my 1.5L engine, manual tranny. So I have been recommending this company here when the subject comes up.
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wrote

around 4500 mile oil changes, usually quite charcoal'd by then
takes about 10 months, it doesn't get the miles like it used to, recently went from 15k yr to about 5k yr

well i already had answered his in my head as (no leak) but i checked anyway and there was a freek'n leak coming somewhere from vicinty of valve cover and distributor base .... I can not believe i missed this on last oil change, it has a fine film oil all over that side if engine, wililnvestigate further
the distributor was replaced about 3 yrs ago so something has gone wrong

I'll check those as well

just looked there, i will compare with local foreign auto parts shop for sake of curiousity
thanks for info robb
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For 10 months, that sounds like a leaky gasket somewhere, as I listed earlier.
My manual says to change the (non-synth) oil every 7500 miles or 6 months. Sometimes I hit the 6-month limit first. I'd say half a quart was what I was going through over that time--before I replaced certain gaskets.
I assume you're comfortable with the 10 months. If not, consider 6 months, which I think is what your manual also says.

My distributor housing was replaced about 2.75 years ago, and I think I'm seeing a little oil leakage down beneath the distributor. I cleaned up there (for the first time) a month ago, then checked again recently. I will probably replace the distributor O-ring within the next six months. That's not a hard job.
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