complaining the mileage dropped about 10-20% after the most recent service,
and another suggested the parking brake had been adjusted too tight. Bingo!
(I am also assuming the slide pins were lubed during the brake work. Once I
overlooked that bit and received one of life's little lessons.) If you have
verified the brakes are not dragging, the parking brake isn't it... but the
lubrication state still could be.
Update: Could be completely unrelated. The PO told me about this very
intermittent problem and this is only the second time I've run into it.
The car doens't start after it's been warmed up. It turns over
great... but just doesn't run. The previous time, It started after
several attempts (30 sec or so).
This time, I had warmed it up and then did a compression test. Then,
when going to start it again, it just won't run. I've checked the
usual stuff (sparks plugged in, injectors plugged in). I even tried
cranking for 20 seconds to see if the ECU would register something
faulty. Nothing. My guess is it will start after cooling down....
Could I have messed something up ignition wise by cranking with the
plug wires removed?
fired up without a load. My son zapped his coil just using the starter to
"bump" the distributor to the proper position. The result can be seen at
The initial problem sounds like a bad "main relay" - see
http://tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#startrun for the straight scoop on that.
Top Notch Shipping. Ordered itSunday night, recieved it Tuesday
Anyway, it looks exactly like the coil that was in there already, it
measures in spec (resistances of the coil), and has worked fine now
that I've put it all back together.
Well.. I seem to have found the problem.
It was, as many have suspected, an old Oxygen Sensor. I was getting
about 25ish MPG, and then I replaced the O2 sensor and now I have gone
about 150 miles with the needle still above the 3/4 tank mark. I'll
let you know the actual mileage when I finish the tank.
Thanks to everyone.
a while now. I'm coming to believe there are a lot of cars that are
suffering degraded O2 sensor performance that haven't degraded enough to set
the "check engine" light. My daughter's '93 Accord with 220K miles is a
prime example. It doesn't make sense to assume a sensor that old is still
working well. I hope to replace that one this spring - it's just too chilly
cars older than 1996 when OBD2 went into effect might *never* trigger
the check engine light. i know my moms 1993 eagle summit never did.
im sure someone here with more knowledge would know whether itll even
blink a code if/when checked.
Yeah but I may have messed him over by casually mentioning
my temptation "to pull off the ignition wire of the suspect
cylinder (with the suspect fuel injector) and see if engine
power sounds like it goes down." Shoulda been more complete;
told him to follow a manual or Tegger's site on this point
(which I believe mentions your experience on this, Mike);
warned him about cranking the engine with any wire
disconnected. It may very well have cost him the coil as
well as time lost.
Gotta come clean, so maybe, with enough repetition in the
archives someone else won't have this happen.
you have convinced me to change mine as well (probably i'll check it first
as i am sporting a '93 civic si @ 195k with original sensor
btw is the accord having any oil trouble ? i am loosing about 1/2 qt
between oil changes ?
was ther a final consensus on where to get good quality O2 sensors ?
How much times is that in miles and months?
Doesn't sound too serious, but I'd still be checking for
leakage around the valve cover; under the distributor; and
into the spark plug tubes. How old's the valve cover gasket
and the several other seals in the valve cover (spark plug
tubes, oil filler cap, rubbery washers for the hold-down
bolts)? Ever had the distributor O-ring seal (IIRC)
I did all of these not long ago, and my 173k mile, 1991
Civic's oil consumption seems way down, from about 1/2 quart
between oil changes. Plus the exterior of the engine and the
spark plug tubes are cleaner. :-)
In 2004 for my 1991 Civic, I used
https://www.automedicsupply.com/ for an OEM oxygen sensor at
a significantly better price than the usual online OEM parts
sites. Good service. The sensor seems fine--still getting 40
mpg most of the year on my 1.5L engine, manual tranny. So I
have been recommending this company here when the subject
around 4500 mile oil changes, usually quite charcoal'd by then
takes about 10 months, it doesn't get the miles like it used to, recently
went from 15k yr to about 5k yr
well i already had answered his in my head as (no leak) but i checked anyway
and there was a freek'n leak coming somewhere from vicinty of valve cover
and distributor base .... I can not believe i missed this on last oil
change, it has a fine film oil all over that side if engine, wililnvestigate
the distributor was replaced about 3 yrs ago so something has gone wrong
I'll check those as well
just looked there, i will compare with local foreign auto parts shop for
sake of curiousity
thanks for info
For 10 months, that sounds like a leaky gasket somewhere, as
I listed earlier.
My manual says to change the (non-synth) oil every 7500
miles or 6 months. Sometimes I hit the 6-month limit first.
I'd say half a quart was what I was going through over that
time--before I replaced certain gaskets.
I assume you're comfortable with the 10 months. If not,
consider 6 months, which I think is what your manual also
My distributor housing was replaced about 2.75 years ago,
and I think I'm seeing a little oil leakage down beneath the
distributor. I cleaned up there (for the first time) a month
ago, then checked again recently. I will probably replace
the distributor O-ring within the next six months. That's
not a hard job.
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