This happened now second time this year that during low load or idling
the engine would just stop and would not restart unless I fully depress
the gas pedal during ignition. After that the engine runs like nothing
It happened again yesterday, but this time the starter could not get the
engine going no matter how I tried. So I had to get it towed to the
nearby Honda dealer who can only start diagnosing it on Monday. I am
already dreading what they will find and how much it will cost.
I wonder if any of you had similar symptoms and what the diagnosis was.
fair that I also report the conclusion of my problem. The distributor
and igniter was the cause of my problem according to the Honda diagnosis
and the replacement costed me quite a bundle. I just don't understand
why the stalls happened only when the car came to a virtual idle
situation (no engine load.) In any case, at least it runs fine now.
Glad to hear you got it fixed. Also, thanks for following up. At least I
was reading it and wondering what was happening.
I had the infamous bad ignition switch problem. I'd be driving down the
road and my engine would die. After a large amount of study on the
internet I finally found that this was a known problem at 100,000 miles.
I ordered the fixed switch and had it replaced by my mechanic. Of course
he could not diagnose it himself because every time I brought it to him
it was running. If you were trying to diagnose that problem it would be
easy if you were suspecting the ignition switch. There are actually two
switches there that turn on your Honda. The one with the ignition also
does some other electrical stuff. You would notice that some of your
electrical still worked. Easy, only if you knew what you were looking for.
I had that problem before, too. I also had the other known problem, the
main relay problem. Fortunately the ignition switch was replaced free of
charge by Honda and I was able to replace the main relay myself.
The car has now almost 300,030 miles, and this is the third distributor
in it. Maybe because the second was an after-market model and did not
last as long as the OEM model.
that drivers have all their house keys attached to the ignition key and
the weight of all those keys eventually causes misalignment of the
switch contacts, especially if most of the driving is bumpy. So dont't
attach other keys to your ignition key.
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