95 Civic rear disc brake prob

I'm trying to change the rear disc brake pads on my 95 Civic EX. Passanger side is now complete. The upper pin on the passanger caliper mounting bracket was sticking causing the inner pad to wear down. I was able to
free the upper pin and replace it...... On the driver's side, I have removed the caliper. But, now I can't remove its upper caliper pin in the caliper mounting bracket housing which is attached to the vehicle. The pin will not move. I removed the rubber protective sleeve, sprayed PB Blaster into the pin area multiple times and I tried warming the housing with a propane torch. I have tried everything but a pipe wrench to break it free. It will not move at all. Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions.
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duckbill wrote:

do is clean and lube so that the caliper slides properly, then reassemble.
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Jim, I got to wordy in my discussion. I have an upper floating pin stuck in the housing and can't free it. I plan to replace the pin which is getting destroyed by me if and when I can get it out. Any Ideas on how to get it out? I plan to thread a bolt into the pin today and put a six point wrench on it to try and break it free. It won't move at all.
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modest heat cycling plus the PB Blaster like you have been doing may do the job, or you may have to replace the caliper.
Good luck.
Mike
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Thanks guys; I got it off after heating "gentley" with an acetelene torch. A pipe wrench would not budge it before some serious heat. Thanks again Michael and Tegger.
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Clamp a set of Vise-Grips on the pin's head. Use a hammer to shock the pin into turning.
See here for more: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/moredetail/brakes2_detail.html
--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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duckbill wrote:

heat - it may be loctited. there are some bolts on hondas that appear to use this, and modest heat shifts this just fine ~250F.
finally, regarding 6-point wrenches, you mean torx? be careful which tool you use. i have found lisle [from sears] to be the most abysmal crap that easily breaks and ruins the socket on the bolt you're trying to turn. once that happens, you have to drill. instead, get a tool where the working part is an insert - better for heat treatment and therefore strength during manufacture.
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