95 Civic rear disc brake prob

I'm trying to change the rear disc brake pads on my 95 Civic EX. Passanger side is now complete. The upper pin on the passanger caliper mounting bracket was sticking causing the inner pad to wear down. I was able to free the upper pin and replace it...... On the driver's side, I have removed the caliper. But, now I can't remove its upper caliper pin in the caliper mounting bracket housing which is attached to the vehicle. The pin will not move. I removed the rubber protective sleeve, sprayed PB Blaster into the pin area multiple times and I tried warming the housing with a propane torch. I have tried everything but a pipe wrench to break it free. It will not move at all. Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions.

Reply to
duckbill
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why do you want to replace it? isn't it a fixed part? all you need to do is clean and lube so that the caliper slides properly, then reassemble.

Reply to
jim beam

Jim, I got to wordy in my discussion. I have an upper floating pin stuck in the housing and can't free it. I plan to replace the pin which is getting destroyed by me if and when I can get it out. Any Ideas on how to get it out? I plan to thread a bolt into the pin today and put a six point wrench on it to try and break it free. It won't move at all.

Reply to
duckbill

They can be ungodly tight when they seize (as you see!) Persistence with modest heat cycling plus the PB Blaster like you have been doing may do the job, or you may have to replace the caliper.

Good luck.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

"duckbill" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:

Clamp a set of Vise-Grips on the pin's head. Use a hammer to shock the pin into turning.

See here for more:

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Reply to
Tegger

couple of suggestions - pipe wrenches are /very/ effective. also modest heat - it may be loctited. there are some bolts on hondas that appear to use this, and modest heat shifts this just fine ~250F.

finally, regarding 6-point wrenches, you mean torx? be careful which tool you use. i have found lisle [from sears] to be the most abysmal crap that easily breaks and ruins the socket on the bolt you're trying to turn. once that happens, you have to drill. instead, get a tool where the working part is an insert - better for heat treatment and therefore strength during manufacture.

Reply to
jim beam

Thanks guys; I got it off after heating "gentley" with an acetelene torch. A pipe wrench would not budge it before some serious heat. Thanks again Michael and Tegger.

Reply to
duckbill

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