95 civic wonts start

My 95 civic wont start after installing a new stereo deck. Two wires touched and blow the radio fuse. Not sure if that has much to do with it. After intalling the stereo deck, I tried to start the car and it
cranks but no start. I thought the fuel pump went out, cause i could not hear it prime when i turned the key. So I replaced the fuel pump, but still no prime. I replaced the fuel pump relay and the ECU and still nothing. Im getting no power to the injectors, fuel pump and relay. The spark plugs and distributer are working still fine after checking them with a test light. In the haynes book it says to check a #2 fuse if the relay and fuel pump is getting no voltage but i cant find a #2 fuse anywhere. If anyone can help figure out what is wrong with my car i would be greatful
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote in

You knowingly shorted two wires together, which then blew a fuse. Instead if checking for other blown fuses, which would be the logical outcome of such an occurrence, you start throwing money and parts at the car.
Fuses are there for the sole purpose of preventing damage from shorts and electrical overloading. They are suposed to blow when you pull stunts like the one you did.

You have TWO fuse blocks, one under the dash and one on top of the right shock tower under the hood.
From the FACTORY wiring diagram, I see there are at least four fuses that you can have damaged by your ineptness: 41, 12 (or 24), 13, 18.
If the fuse listing stickers are missing from the fuse box covers, you have no choice but to physically check each and every fuse in the two boxes. The big ones with screws in the ends will need to be removed and checked with a multimeter.

Drop that Haynes in the garbage and get a real manual. www.helminc.com You can find these used on eBay as well.
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Sorry should of said something. i have alreadys checked all the fuses under the dash and the hood before i bought the parts. i couldnt find any blown. i will check again to be sure. i also checked the volage of the wires to the pump and relay and its only has .8 volts( if that helps any). thanks for the time and help though. if you have anymore ideas, im all ears.
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

1. get a decent manual - helm. 2. locate and fix the correct fuse.
as a point of principle, /NEVER/ throw parts and money at a problem unless you have a good diagnosis! and always stick to the correct fuse ratings. it may be tempting to use a higher rated fuse if you keep blowing one, but if you do, you can have a much more debilitating problem like the one you're experiencing.
finally, get yourself a multimeter and keep it in your tool box. replacing a fuel pump is a pita, and you could have saved yourself that brain damage if you'd tested the circuit to it first.
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It's actually very easy in his '95, not like ours.

And if he'd DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY FIRST, like you're supposed to do every time you do electrical work on the car!
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in

pump, relay and ecu. That was to make sure i did everything exactly right the first time.
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On May 27, 1:09 am, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

< I did check all the fuses and replaced the radio fuse. < And the pump and relay is only getting .8 volts.
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

that should tell you it wasn't the pump!
the main fuse box is on the r/h shock tower - that's your next stop.
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