98 Accord EX Rear Caliper ?

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Going to help the neighbor replace the brakes on his Honda this Saturday. The front brakes are no problem at all. I have a question on the rear that
pertains to the parking brake on the caliper. How difficult is this to reset? I have looked in the normal places for assistance (AutoZone repair guides) but they do not list this year. Any advice (or links) appreciated. It looks like it is a mechanical cam through the caliper. TIA GM
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They might be...Unless you know exactly what you're looking for, and what you're looking at.
Honda brakes are a bit, well, finicky. Honda typically spends lots of money on engines and "safety", but then recoups the cost on things like brakes.

If the parking brake is actuated through a lever on top of the caliper, then the lever must be hard against its post (once piston slack is taken up) before the cable is adjusted.
If the levers are not against their posts, back off the parking brake cable adjuster until the levers are against their posts, then take up the parking brake cable's slack.
Make certain that the clevises can swivel freely. If they are seized, PB cable adjustments will be incorrect.
Incorrection will also result if the caliper pistons are seized, which is a distressingly common occurrece.
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Tegger

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Tegger wrote:

now thats not fair! honda brakes are light and strong. light is good for handling. light and strong is comparatively expensive. check out some of that clunking junk ford use some time.

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And seize/rust amazingly fast compared to, say, Toyota brakes.

I have. Plastic pistons? No thanks.
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Plastic pistons?!?!
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Yep. Light-blue plastic. They crumble around the edges.
Wanna buy a Ford? :)
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I was shocked when I found my (#2) son's Taurus with a 2.4 L engine had a six inch clutch.
Mike
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Michael Pardee wrote:

have you any idea how much r&d goes into a frod? it's billions. and 98% of it is directed at life [and cost] limitation. their cars are designed to /just/ last target mileage, then suddenly get prohibitively expensive to keep. the bean counters think this makes them money apparently. now, how much market share do frod have again?
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That's a pretty strong but unsupported statement Jim. Also what has been the best selling vehicle in the U.S. for the past 25 or so years? Also, don't recall any Ford with 13 or more possible replacement combinations for the passenger's side cv axle as with a 94 or so Toyota Camry.
DaveD
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I used to work very closely with the OEM parts industry that supplies the automakers, both domestic and foreign.
I never personally saw any attempt at design life limitation for the sake of design life limitation, or attempt at deliberate obsolescence for the sake of obsolescence.
What I DID see was copious evidence of cost-cutting. Everything was designed to last just about so long primarily because statistics showed people didn't keep or drive their cars past a certain point, so there was no point in putting excess money into a part that would never get used to the point of failure.
When a five cent reduction in cost on a high-volume parts is a significant saving, there is a considerable and constant push to find every possible penny of savings in the cost of building a car.
What I also did see was considerable effort at making *important* parts (like engines and transmissions, tires, brakes and shocks) last LONGER before failure. They would make the tiniest changes that you would not think were worth the effort, all to the end of getting just bit longer life.
That's why engines and transmissions last 300K now instead of 100K, like they did in 1970. That's why you no longer have to replace shocks and tires every 20K miles, like you did in 1970.
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Tegger wrote:

honda, yes. frod, no. talk with a taxi company - they romp through engines and transmissions like nobody's business, and taxi use is pretty much ideal service conditioning in that maintenance is guaranteed. the frod operators here in san francisco replace transmissions every 100-120k miles. engines maybe 150-200k. and thats lazy old v8's, working at 20% load, not high revving honda working at 60%+.
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Dave and Trudy wrote:

well, you're right that it's "unsupported", but i have two sources. one was a buddy who worked there - spent all his time on injector systems. the other was from uni where a couple of our profs would do consulting for manufacturers like frod, and they would work on life limitation projects - an interesting [and difficult] academic problem.

f150. don't understand how that contradicts the above though. the design is real simple. components are real simple. the only production challenge is making it cheap [and constantly cheaper] and figuring out how to make it last so long, but no longer. seriously, it's real hard. that's where the $'s go. think about this; there's a bunch of real ancient f150's on the road - the turnip truck type. and there's a bunch of new ones. but have you seen many 10-year old f150's? there's aren't many. think about that. and think abut it in the context of life limitation technology starting to emerge int he late 70's/early 80's. there's plenty of old frods that pre-date that time. but not many that post-date it. look around you as you drive.

eh? how's that's relevant???
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On Tue, 24 Apr 2007 01:50:42 +0000, Tegger wrote:

Are they still pressed on? My '88 and I think a friend's 91 had them pressed on. They were a BITCH!

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wrote in

It was only Accord-based cars that had pressed-on front rotors, and only up to '97.
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On Wed, 25 Apr 2007 02:36:56 +0000, Tegger wrote:

Ah, thanks. Glad to see they got away from THAT!
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Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/ wrote:

why? it's great for dealing with "warped rotor" syndrome, something that plagues poorly maintained hondas with bolt-on disks.
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On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 19:58:45 -0700, jim beam wrote:

Because it was a PITA! Not easy for a backyard mechanic to do.
And, as far as warped rotors, there are two things to do to keep rotors from warping: buy decent rotors, and torque the lug nuts.
I've been doing my own brakes for 6 years, and in all that time I had one set of rotors warp...and then, somehow they straightened themselves out! It was a beater Celica I bought for $250, put 30,000 miles on, and used the cheapest (Chinese) rotors I could get!
When I did the Supra, I got Bendix rotors made in Canada.
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wrote in

A bit more complex that that. Maybe a bit more than a bit.
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf100326.htm

Been doing mine for 25.

Then it wasn't "warp". Probably either corrosion or glaze that eventually wore off.
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On Fri, 27 Apr 2007 23:12:07 +0000, Tegger wrote:

Thanks Teg! Duly noted and bookmarked!

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Ok, I understand so far. When resetting the piston will is screw in cw or ccw? TIA GM

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