98 Acrd. HELP! Won't start. Supposed 2 be in FLA 2day! .

Often, it's something you disturbed while performing a previous task in the scenario that you have set.

My first move would be to review exactly all the moves you made while changing that fan motor. There's a zillion wires in modern cars and it only takes compromising one to put you out of business.

Just my 2¢ worth...

JT

I've pulled all fuses, relays. Retraced steps. Wiggled and jiggled things. Most disturbing is the fact that the scan tool won't light up to read codes.

Meatman wrote in news:3adbe321-9d3e-440d-9775- snipped-for-privacy@g11g2000yqe.googlegroups.com:

Quote:"...also sprayed leaves out of windshield grille."

Please tell me you didn't spray a garden hose directly into the leaf-grate?

Also please describe the EXACT behavior of the Check Engine light as you turn the key **SLOWLY** from "0" to "III". Include any clicks heard, and any on/offs of any dashboard lamps.

On bended knee, repentant...Tegger, the answer is "yes". Scan tool working now. No idea why. Ready to accept my beating/your help. Thx. Kevin.

Some wire got disturbed that probably is responsible for all your problems.

A couple of years ago when I changed my first Honda engine in one of my ancient Civics, it just wouldn't start. No fuel.

All the sages at the shop cried, "fuel pumpt," but Honda fuel pump failures on carbureted cars are very rare. Besides it was working fine before the engine installation.

I finally found the culprit... A wire that enabled the electric pump (driven by the distributor) was not connected. Ran fine after that.

These things can drive you nutz and the newer the car, the worse it is..

JT

1) DASH LAMPS and MIL notes: Did this very s l o w l y Position I, nothing. Position II, Main relay clicks once, MIL lit, MAINT lit, BATT lit, OIL lit, SRS lit, ABS lit, BRAKE lit, P lit, D4 lit, Doors/ trunk/"brake lamp" all lit. Relay clicks again, MIL-MAINT-ABS-D4 all go out, SRS goes out few seconds later. When cranking, OIL-ABS-BRAKE-P are the only ones lit.

2) Have fuel. Have air. Have spark. Main relay tested fine. All appears dry. INTERESTINGLY ENOUGH I can turn the key and as it turns over and attempts to start I can give it gas and as long as I'm throttling it I can rev it up and down and it's normal and smooth. Dies the instant your release the gas pedal.

Ahhhh, Tegger is your only hope!

It's posts like this that I thank gawd that I have old stuff that doesn't have most of the above...

JT

TEGGEnator, looks like you're up to bat! Thanks guys!

Meatman wrote in news:d5a2eaa1-bb42-47d1-b17f- snipped-for-privacy@z6g2000yqz.googlegroups.com:

Sounds like the ECM is OK...

You have fuel. How do you know this?

You have air. Possibly not.

You have spark. How do you know this?

You have made /certain/ that you have not accidentally left anything unplugged, such as the IACV?

Try this: Unplug a vacuum hose to the intake plenum. Any one will do, even the brake booster hose. Do not close off the resulting hole. Now start the car. Does the engine idle now, even if badly?

Tegger wrote in news:Xns9D59C9BA6C07Ctegger@208.90.168.18:

BTW, work's been really really busy, which is why I've been kinda absent for a while.

smooth. No funky exhaust. Nuthin.

TEGGER wrote

I can make it rev up to 3k.

I can make it rev up to 3k.

I can make it rev up to 3k+ AND we popped the front plug wires, inserted a NEW plug into each wire (in turn), cranked the car and it sparked to ground.

Away at/in Sandestin, Florida til Saturday late. Will answer your other questions/tests post-haste upon my return. Likely to update yous guys In the early AM this SUN or MON. Thx, all. Tiggger, get back to work! 8^)

Meatman wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@z3g2000yqz.googlegroups.com:

You can, when using the gas pedal, which opens the throttle plate. The throttle plate only supplies engine air at off-idle.

That the car will run only with the throttle plate open suggests something wrong with the auxiliary air supply, which is the IACV.

Idle air (closed throttle condition) is provided (mostly) by the IACV. When I instruct you to pull a vacuum line, I am checking IACV operation. If the car will idle with your foot OFF the gas when a line is unplugged, then the IACV is not operating correctly.

If the engine will still not idle even with a vacuum line unplugged (even the brake booster line), then there is something else wrong.

Can a failed IAT sensor cause my problem? Discovered (via my brother) in the meanwhile, but before the "pull a vacuum hose" instructions...the IAT had oil in the male/female electrical connector with no other oil/leaks/build-up in the vicinity.

Meatman wrote in news:11df351a-dde3-43e2-b792- snipped-for-privacy@b33g2000yqc.googlegroups.com:

I think it's very unlikely a failed IAT sensor would cause a no-start. But if you want to eliminate that possibility anyway, just unplug the connector from the IAT sensor.

The ECM will then see the open on that circuit, set a DTC, and use its own internal values for IAT.

Sill in Florida, but, TAH-DAH!!! Brother back home pulled a vacuum line from intake/plenum and car started and idled, though roughly. Replaced IACV and apparently everything is A-OK. Thanks fellers. Whether by coincidence in timing, or water contamination, or both we (er, you) have apparently fixed me up. Many thanks once again, TEGGER, JIM BEAM, et al. I certainly appreciate your time. Oh, TEGGER: Still wondering your fears about blasting out the leaf grate. I removed it and looked around...nothing but wipers/motor, one run of wiring harness and fresh air intake. What were you imagining might have happened early on in this discussion? Curious. Thanks again. Kevin.

Meatman wrote in news:5b0679df-ae14-4347-a4ed- snipped-for-privacy@z7g2000yqb.googlegroups.com:

Glad the car appears fixed, anyway.

If you look inside the cowl, against the surface that faces the passenger compartment, you'll see a number of open holes of various sizes. Blasting water into the cowl can push some water though those holes, potentially wetting interior electronics that do not normally encounter water when normal rainwater enters the cowl molding (leaf grate). Look carefully, right up underneath the part where the windshield overhangs the cowl.

Plus, if flow or splash is great enough, it is possible to push water into the interior ventilation air intake. This won't likely short anything out, but it can get water on the floor carpet.

The leaf grate is there in order to make sure that only tiny particles make it though, particles so small that they are washed away with normal rainfall. I have never, ever, seen leaf or debris buildup in any cowl, and there is absolutely NO need to ever try to "rinse out" the cowl with a garden hose or any other pressurized water source.

I HAVE seen debris buildup at the cowl drain points immediately behind the front wheels, but you can't flush them with a garden hose aimed into the cowl. Instead you need to remove the front mud flaps and the fender splash shields, and blast water in there instead.