98 CRV traction

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$20.

Reply to
Elmo P. Shagnasty
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"Elmo P. Shagnasty" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:

Or...

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$10.

Except that you need to download it in separate PDFs.

Reply to
Tegger

"Elmo P. Shagnasty" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:

Honda, the EPA, and the NHTSA all class the CR-V as a light-truck, even though it's Civic-based.

My boss's new 2011 CR-V says "4WD" on the tailgate.

Reply to
Tegger

"Elmo P. Shagnasty" wrote

If I ever were to consider buying a used car, and that car didn't have a manual, I would walk away from it. Not having a manual would tell me the owner may have paid little attention to what the car needed for maintenance or its proper operation.

Reply to
Howard Lester

if anything, i think it's the other way around. if it's not in the car, the owner is more likely to have taken it out to read it. you're not going to plow through several hundred pages of a modern manual while sitting at a stop light. i say this because i've had used cars with all the original documents in perfect condition in the glove box - never been opened or looked at, and the car utterly neglected in every way. i've had others with no docs whatsoever, but well maintained. it really is no indicator of whether a vehicle has been maintained properly whatsoever.

anyway, what's with this obsession with maintenance records??? a vehicle can have a full maint. record, but be a wheeled chicken coop if the maintainer was incompetent. or it can be recordless, and obsessively immaculate. again, it's no indicator of condition that opening the hood and actually looking at the vehicle's guts won't tell in much better detail.

you can even extend this to the clear title/salvage title charade. i've seen clear title vehicles that have clearly had poorly done crash rebuild work. and i've seen [owned] salvage title that have been flawless, simply because they had been de-registered by the previous owner who didn't want to pay non-op fees. there is NOTHING about a vehicle's "documented history" that matters even vaguely against a competent inspection. nothing.

Reply to
jim beam

if anything, i think it's the other way around. if it's not in the car, the owner is more likely to have taken it out to read it. you're not going to plow through several hundred pages of a modern manual while sitting at a stop light. i say this because i've had used cars with all the original documents in perfect condition in the glove box - never been opened or looked at, and the car utterly neglected in every way. i've had others with no docs whatsoever, but well maintained. it really is no indicator of whether a vehicle has been maintained properly whatsoever.

anyway, what's with this obsession with maintenance records??? a vehicle can have a full maint. record, but be a wheeled chicken coop if the maintainer was incompetent. or it can be recordless, and obsessively immaculate. again, it's no indicator of condition that opening the hood and actually looking at the vehicle's guts won't tell in much better detail.

you can even extend this to the clear title/salvage title charade. i've seen clear title vehicles that have clearly had poorly done crash rebuild work. and i've seen [owned] salvage title that have been flawless, simply because they had been de-registered by the previous owner who didn't want to pay non-op fees. there is NOTHING about a vehicle's "documented history" that matters even vaguely against a competent inspection. nothing.

Reply to
Boomer

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It sounds, reading it, like a variation on the fluid flywheel system used for the clutch on the pre Routemaster London double deckers (the RT series for anyone interested) and on early Daimler and Lanchester cars. No doubt some US manufacturers used the system as well. I remember as a lad, sitting up front and marvelling how the bus driver would just lift his foot straight off the pedal, which with any normal clutch would either stall the engine or cause a kangaroo pullaway, and the bus just drove off as smooth as anything.

Reply to
Tinkerer

For those rare occasions, or if you live in a state (OR) that is picky about driving on winter roads, get a set of radial chains designed for your car and wheels and follow the instructions. We got a pair of Security Chain Company SC1042 Radial Chains for the front wheels only, per Honda manual. BTW the manual was wrong about the model of SCC chains to use, but right about clearance issues. The dealer service dept. concurred. I got them from Amazon. If you want, they also make a more expensive Shur Grip Z, also available from Amazon.

Reply to
Green Eggs & NoSpam

For those rare occasions, or if you live in a state (OR) that is picky about driving on winter roads, get a set of radial chains designed for your car and wheels and follow the instructions. We got a pair of Security Chain Company SC1042 Radial Chains for the front wheels only, per Honda manual. BTW the manual was wrong about the model of SCC chains to use, but right about clearance issues. The dealer service dept. concurred. I got them from Amazon. If you want, they also make a more expensive Shur Grip Z, also available from Amazon.

Reply to
Boomer

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