All the oil ran out of my new 2007 CR-V !!

Your owners manual could certainly tell you capacity of the sump.

You didn't check the drain plug? That would be the most likely culprit in my mind. Not being real familiar with Hondas yet, generally, a flashing light is worse than a solid light. In my Audi, if I had a flashing oil light, I would immediately pul over and turn off the car, as that indicates a severe lack-of-oil condition (versus a solid light which would mean I may be down a quart). So you could have done some serious damage to the car. The dealer will probably fix the oil loss problem and leave it at that.

Good luck.

Dan D '07 Odyssey EX

PS Just looked at my Oddy's manual, the light is actually an oil PRESSURE indicator, not an oil LEVEL indicator, and says that driving with it flashing or on can lead to severe engine damage. Again, this is in my Odyssey. DD

The previous generation of the CR-V had problems with the oil filter gaskets stacking up and then blowing out, resulting in loss of oil & fires, but it happened after the first oil change. At 900 miles, I assume you have not changed the oil yet, so the likely culprits are loose drain plug, loose oil filter, or road damage to something under it.

If at any po> I have a one-month old 07 CRV with about 900 miles. Last night I noticed

Just got off the phone with the service rep at the dealer (Herb Chambers in Burlington MA). The crank seal was blown. The oil was pumping onto the ground as the engine ran. He said "it looks like everything is OK inside the engine". I said there is no way to know that without putting the crankshaft and cylinder walls under a microscope. He more or less agreed.

I said that I want a new car, and he agreed to escalate this to his manager.

Chuck

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Hmmmm Your owner's manual says you should _shut it down_ if you ever see the oil light come on. You said you drove it 'a couple more miles'. I don't think you're in a position to demand anything.

Hopefully it will be OK.

'Curly'

When I say "drove it for some days this way", I meant that I drove it for some days without knowing there was an oil problem. As soon as I actually saw the oil light flicker, I continued home (about 2 miles) and immediately added a quart of oil before doing my next errand. The oil light went out.

Chuck

It should be ok. I did something similar (oil light on, few qts low) with my 4th gen hatchback Si at about 125K miles. It's now at 240K miles and still runs great. Besides, not a whole lot you can do about it now. :\

nb

If you can't fine evidence of an external leak--drain plug, filter etc, then a contact with Honda is mandatory. If they have any fear that there is an engine related problem they will go all out to find out what it is and will rectify your problem with minimal cost to you. As a absolute minimum you should have some diagnostic checks to determine if the engine has suffered some damage. The car is new--you don't an oil burner for the rest of it's life. MLD

Glad that the source of the problem has been identified---don't let them blow you off. Peruse with Honda for a new car. If that doesn't work be a nice guy and settle for a new engine. No luck, go for an engine teardown and have the rings, valve seals and whatever inspected/replaced. They put 4 qts of oil in the car because that's what it needs--you ran with a lot less--hard to imagine you got away damage free and you don't want it to haunt you for the life of the car. I am in the same area and might buy from that dealer so would you post how this all ends? MLD

Great comment! From where you sit you can tell that his engine is OK. He had a major defect, why should he take any chances as to the effect it had on his engine. You would be surprised as to what Honda will do to protect the reputatioin of their engines. MLD MLD

Yeah, what he said. And if you don't get satisfaction on at least a new engine, contact your local Attorney General's consumer protection office. I don't know how things are out there, but here in Kansas they're pretty proactive at pursuing such things.

I have not yet heard back from the dealer, about their intended resolution. I am now driving a rental, which they are paying for. If the dealer offers to install a new engine, I am wondering if I should accept it... It seems pretty complicated to me to replace the whole engine, with all of its many interconnections, and do it as well as the engine in a new car.

Thoughts on whether I could trust a dealer to do this right?

Chuck

resolution.

Go after a new car; right now your Dealer should be your advocate since any major decision will come from Honda (since it was their new car that experienced a mechanical failure). The Dealer will get paid to do whatever Honda recommends so I don't think that he would be worried about his costs . If Honda will not replace the car ( fall over in surprise if they do) then I think that you will be doing well if you're offered a new engine. That should be the minimum offer, I just wouldn't want the one that's in there now. Inspection and replacement of some components may not get all the potential areas of trouble. I'd be concerned too about all the teardown and reassembly involved in a replacement but it's doable and much of the same teardown occurs if they were just inspecting/replacing the innards of the engine. Keep us updated as this is will be a good insight as to how that Dealer and Honda will respond. MLD

Chuck, I wonder why you think you are entitled to a new engine let alone a new car? I believe that you should make your decision based on what the dealer finds with your present car. If it was a manufacturing defect or a construction mistake, then I would agree that you should be entitled to a new engine. If it turns out that your problem resulted from damage caused by a road hazard, such as a hole in the oil pan or something striking the filter and dislodging it then the situation is completely different. To illustrate; if you bought a new battery for your car, and during installation you dropped the battery and knocked a hole in it, would you expect a replacement under warranty? I don't think so. Furthermore, you exacerbated the situation by continuing to drive the vehicle after the idiot light illuminated. If they really wish to do so, Honda can argue that you are responsible, at least in part, for damage to the engine. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying that I agree with that position, rather I am simply pointing out to you what may come down the pike. I would prepare myself for all contingencies and have arguments to counter them. As far as accepting a new engine, definitely! A new engine, installed by the dealership, should carry the same warranty as the original engine. In any case, good luck and I hope this all works out for the best for you.

DaveD

resolution.

I think they will repair it. My experience with a 99 Accord 5 spd with problem with 5th grinding on a shift at 600 miles was that Honda would not replace the transmission -- in fact stalled me for well over 6 weeks until I just gave up and had the dealer fix the transmission. They found it had been incorrectly assembled at factory. A lot depends on your State laws -- and your willingness to hire legal assistance.

Wow! Already engine trouble on brand new cars??? Wow! Way too early.

I bet that Hyundai dealer will exchange with a new car.

He should get new engine if not get a new car even if the fault is on the driver. If this happens to Hyundai, with Hyundai aggressive service will replace new engine based on Hyundia's 5 years or 100,000 miles guarantee.

Based on the fact that I drove the car for 4-5 days, with the engine dry (or nearly dry) of oil, I am asking Honda for a new car or factory-new engine. Here is the letter I just faxed to the dealer....

Notes about 2007 CR-V Oil Loss December 12, 2006 Chuck Connell, 781-939-0505 Car purchased from Herb Chambers Honda

Driving home from work last night, about 2-3 miles from home, I thought I saw a light flicker on the dashboard. I looked, but saw nothing. I continued to drive. I saw another flicker, looked again, and just saw the oil light go out. I continued to drive. The light came on again, and then went off. I was now about one mile from home. I continued home, and checked the dip stick as soon as I got there. It was hard to read in the dark, and I had just stopped the engine, but it appeared low. I added a quart of oil.

I drove my daughter to dance class (5 miles total) without the oil light coming on. I checked the dipstick when I got home anyway. It appeared low, so I added another quart of oil and parked the car for the night.

This morning, I checked the dipstick. The oil was completely off the stick, or perhaps just a drop at the bottom. I added two quarts, bringing the oil level up to full (2nd hole in the stick). The crankcase had been down four quarts of oil. I drove directly to the dealer, about 6 miles.

Looking back, the leak started at least 5 days earlier.

- There are two large oil spots in my driveway. One where the CRV was parked, and another at the entrance to the driveway. I saw both of these over the previous weekend, but did not imagine they were from my new car. The first one, I assumed was from my 10-year-old Saturn which had a large transmission leak a few months ago. The second one, I assumed was from another car that had visited our house or turned around in the driveway. The driveway is black and old, so it is not obvious when a new oil spot appears.

- There are two oil spots at my office parking lot, where I parked my CRV the previous week. I remember where I parked because I had backed my car in there, so that a glass company could easily fix the front windshield, which had been cracked by a stone.

I now realize that the engine was dry of oil for 4-5 days, or more. When I started the car those mornings, it started slowly, as if the battery were low. I thought, at the time, that this seemed strange. Why would a new battery be sluggish? But the car started, and ran fine, so I dismissed it. I now understand that the reason the battery seemed weak is because the engine was dry and not lubricated. This period covers at least 8-10 dry starts, because each day I started it again after work, after 9 hours of non-use.

-- END --

"Chuck Connell" wrote in news:AqCdnYLbHe-g_RzYnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@conversent.net:

Chuck, while I sympathize with your problem and have been following this thread with interest, I must point up something nobody has as yet: It is poor procedure to keep changing the Subject line with each message. Some newsreaders have fits with changing Subject lines.

The subject line should stay the same throughout the thread unless the suject changes enough to send the thread off-topic, which this one has not.

OK. Sorry. I am using a graphical reader, which displays the whole thread nicely indented as appropriate. So changing subject lines is helpful sometimes in that case.

Chuck