Alternator Brush Assembly Guidance?

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Will people with experience with the alternator brush assembly please examine the bottom-most photo on the site below and tell me if I have correctly identified the "brush
holder insulator"?
http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id14.html
I did an oil change Monday and decided to explore a little while I was under there, in preparation for the big pre-emptive, brush assembly changeout in the next year or so. Unfortunately, moving from various drawings to the actual alternator, and being in a hurry as it was getting dark, I got confused and didn't actually put my fingers on the two screws said to hold the brush assembly in place.
If one gets this far (end cover off, but alternator still mounted), is it really a piece of cake? Looks like a somewhat tough angle for getting any serious torque on the two screws.
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Yes.
It's a soft silicone rubber. Mine was orange. It's very easily torn, I discovered (oops), so you have to be very careful pulling it out of its recess.
And I actually removed all the nuts from the underside of the car. Access was too hard from up top in my car.
Two important notes when reassembling: Sand ALL electrical connections bright before rejoining, and DO NOT overtighten! You will break something!

It is. If the screws are rusty, it will be a struggle. The best thing to use is a brand-new (stubby) Phillips screwdriver. I say "new" because that way you're assured of the best fit possible and the least chance of stripping.
Here's my short writeup after fixing mine in 2002: <http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/browse_frm/thread/611d2083a2bb174c/f963e0cb2ba9d689?lnk=st&q=alternator+brush+group%3Arec.autos.makers.honda+insubject%3Aintegra+insubject%3Aalternator+author%3Ategger&rnum=1&hl=en#f963e0cb2ba9d689
My brush fix lasted until last summer, when the stator and commutators corroded together, requiring replacement of the original alternator.
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TeGGeR®

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Tegger, how many miles were on your 91 Integra when the stator and commutator gave up?
Also, may I incorporate some of your remarks at the site I threw together? I'll put them down as something like "specific anecdotal experience" with this job.
Alex and Bob, I'd also like to incorporate some of your remarks at the site, too. Okay?
snip but comments noted

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Fine by me. Thanks for the great site.
nb
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Sure. ---------- Alex
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About 240,000. Keep in mind the failure was was due only to corrosion. If I lived in a place with better weather, I'd probably still be driving on that alternator. It was charging fine right up to the end. The car sat for two weeks while we were on vacation, which gave corrosion lots of time to close the small gap that remained. If I hadn't let it sit, it may have taken several more months to seize.
Also, I made a small error in my reply: It was the *sealing gasket* that was orange silicone and fragile, not the brush holder. You have to carefully remove the *sealing gasket* before the brush holder can be removed. (It appears to have been removed in your photos).

Go ahead.
At the time, I was going to take photos of the job, but the driveway was wet and cold, and it was night-time and snowing. I just wanted to get it over with.
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Okay.
I don't know. At the time, I hadn't even figured out where the two screws were for the brush assembly. I didn't take anything from the center area off. I don't see this gasket listed at Majestic's site, so I suppose it comes with the brush holder insulator. Maybe mine was too grimy to be obvious. All the photos at the site were taken after I cleaned the parts up a little.
I added some comments from the newsgroup to the site. Thanks for the input, bob, alex, and tegger, as well as the several others of you who have commented on this job in the past year.
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wrote>

The two screws are under that gasket, as I recall. My brush holder was original, and from 1991. Maybe replacement gaskets (or aftermarket ones) are a different color.

You'd hope so. They're pretty fragile.
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TeGGeR®

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You must be right. Because of the Majestic or manual drawing of the alternator, I was looking for two horizontally oriented screws, but all I came up with were the ones for what turned out to be the voltage regulator, near the circumference, not the center.
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wrote

They are on either side of the alternator's shaft. This is good, really, because being covered by the gasket means most corrosion is kept away from them.
I cannot stress how important it is that your *stubby* Phillips screwdriver be a *perfect* fit in the screws. You need to make sure that you hold the driver straight in line with the screws, and push really hard while turning, to make sure the head doesn't ride up out of the Phillips cross. If it rides out, you may round off the cross enough that removal of the alternator may be the only way to remove the screws.
If the only Phillips driver you have is one size too small, DON'T USE IT! Go buy the proper one.
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alternator brush assembly in place:

I have found that slot-end screwdrivers often work better for freeing Phillips head screws. Do you object to such an approach? If so, why?
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wrote re the Phillips head screws

You'll see once you get the screws exposed. They are pretty tight, and will release with a snap.
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TeGGeR®

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Not so. Look at the brush assy in this part picture:
http://www.maximumautoparts.com/HO_Alternator~Brush~Assy._mo.html
You can clearly see the two assy mounting tabs (the little thingies with holes in them) sticking out beyond the "brush holder insulator", that keyhole shaped orange thingie. The reason you can't easily see the screws when the brush assy is mounted on the alternator is because they're both sunken down in between cooling fins and other surrounding junk like the voltage regulator and diode assy. One sits a little further out than the other, but they're both recessed. The screw mounting holes are not holes in the plastic assy housing that run the full length of the assy and put the screw heads out at the outside edge of the brush assy. They are metal tabs, brush contact points, that screw into the rear housing assy and are located at the innermost edge of the brush assy. How wide is the assy housing? About 1 to 1-1/4 inches. Well, that's how deep those tabs sit in from the outside edges of the brush assy.
nb
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Hey, nice site and citation!
I got to an enlarged view of the actual assembly via
http://69.0.158.19/live/F402040927OES.JPG
or
http://www2.maximumautoparts.com/parts/maximumautoparts/wizard.jsp?year 91&make=HO&model=CVC-DX4-001&category=F&part=Alternator%20Brush%20Assy.&returnurl=null&dpúlse
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wrote

Eh, so my memory of them being *under* the gasket was wrong. Four years will do that.
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wrote

NOW I remember why my orange gasket tore! Once I had the screws out, I incautiously pulled the brush holder off its seat, not realizing the bottom of the gasket was going to hook on the shaft and hang up. Pop!
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I want to double check: This "orange gasket" is not the same as the "brush holder insulator" that the servive manual shows, is it? (I used drawings from the UK Honda site service manuals.)
I am asking because the "brush holder insulator" (with the hole such that it goes around the shaft) is orange in the photo from the MaximumAutoParts site that notbob linked earlier. (Then again that site says the photo shows only the brushes, holder, and springs.) I copied the photo to my site at http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id14.html , with a link to Maximum's site.
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wrote

Going from 4 year-old memory here again, so watch out...
When I got the screws out, I simply pulled the holder, thinking it was going to pop off. I didn't know at the time that the bottom ring was unbraced by any sort of metal support. When I pulled the top half free, the bottom half stuck in its recess. It stretched, then tore as it came free. I thought I was in trouble, until I realized all I had to do once I got the new brushes on was to stuff the piece back into its recess, which I did, just fine. Once it was back in, it didn't try to fall off again, and the torn ends lined up well.
Since you plan on replacing the entire holder, this should not be an issue for you.

That was the fragile rubber ring I broke.

So was mine.
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Yes. It is.
The orange insulator/gasket/seal, whatever you want to call it, is 3 dimensional and all one piece. It seals on three planes: (1) the large keyhole shaped surface insulates the brush assy from the end plate cover (2) the two parallel strips, which are perpendicular to the keyhole, lie along the edges of the opening in the cast metal tube that surrounds the slip rings (3) the other end of those two strips is just another semi-circular seal, on a plane parallel to the keyhole plane, that fits the opening in the tube between the brush assy and the rear housing. Besides insulation, all three areas of the insulator/seal keeps grit and other crap from getting into the slip ring cavity.
While I appreciate your efforts to provide an informative website, I think you're getting ahead of yourself. Why don't you put this portion of your site aside until you've actually gone in and done the job and can see exactly how all these parts fit together and get some real pictures. All this guessing and speculation and 3rd party descriptions are counterproductive and inherently inaccurate. If you just can't wait, change your brushes now. You don't have to wait till next year. If you have over 150K miles on the car, it needs new brushes. And, I promise, the next time I do some repair on my car, I'll take pics and send them to you. :)
nb
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Tegger and notbob, okay got it.
Notbob, I think there was just a minor misunderstanding between what Tegger saw, what the manuals say, and my interpretation. No big deal, AFAIC.
My alternator's brushes are about 68k miles old. I had the alternator replaced at the dealer at about 106k miles.
I spend a lot of time preparing for important repair jobs, so as to do them right and not have to depend on a shop for iffy work. I also like to learn. Hence this effort. Plus, problems with the alternator do come up a lot here.
Again, thanks folks for the input.
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