Alternator Brush Assembly Guidance?

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What I REMEMBERED seeing. Four years ago. The photos from notbob cleared that confusion up.

You can leave the brushes until the charge light starts flickering. Mine went quite a lot longer than 68K.

Me too. I did a similar investigation before tackling my timing belt for the first time years ago. I'm doing the same on-again/off-again investigation in preparation for doing the timing belt on our Tercel this summer, and the front bushings and shocks all-around on the Integra.
BTW, I discovered I can easily hacksaw through a 10.9 bolt in ten minutes with one hand and a partially-worn blade. If the damper fork bolts won't come loose for me, I'll allow a couple of hours per side and two premium hacksaw blades each side to cut through the old bolts and bushings. A complete front bushing set is $350Cdn including all the taxes. The rears were much more than that.
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TeGGeR®

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snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net says...

This looks just like the alternator on an 88 accord I recently swapped out. Yes, you have brush holder/insulator correctly identified. If you got this far, getting the brushes out pas this point is very easy. Two screws and the whole assembly comes out. ------------- Alex
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Yes, you have.

In my opinion, no. But, mine is a civic hatchback with zero wiggle room. I had to remove my alternator and that was hard enough. Also, putting the new brushes assy back on can be tricky. You must slide the spring loaded brushes back over the slip rings and the smaller diameter between the two rings allows the innermost brush to push down into the recess. Forcing the inner brush against the now larger diameter of the inner slip ring may chip or break the brush. I used a very small diameter spring steel rod (a very small dia drill bit would also work nicely) layed over the slip rings to hold the brushes up in the holder while sliding the brush assy back in place over the slip rings. I then pulled the rod out which let the two brushes drop down on the slip rings undamaged. This may be all but impossible to do with the alternator still mounted. Also, you may have great difficulty replacing the screws. One of the two screws holding the brush assy is recessed and will be almost impossible to replace without a phillips screw holder/driver. A magnetic screwdriver would also work for this.
When you get your new brushes, get the whole brush holder assy. It comes with a new brush holder insulator and makes the whole job so much easier and quicker.
nb
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I had no trouble with that. As I recall, I just used a tiny flat-blade screwdriver to help the brushes over the edge of the slip rings.

Again, I had no trouble, even doing it one-handed. using a new, well- fitting stubby screwdriver is a big help. I just held the screw on to the screwdriver with my fingers while guiding them into place.

Sure does. The brush holder is a great big heat sink. In retrospect, I should have used a small butane torch when replacing my brushes instead of an iron.
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Ah, but you used something, didn't you! Same problem, different solution. ;)

Yeah, but I'm a big ol' sausage fingered klutz.

Plus, I wasn't in the mood to play "chase the spring". But, if one is feeling all handyman-ish or on a really tight budget, $20 can be saved by replacing just the brushes. The brushes alone are about $4-5 per pair and the whole assy with new insulator is about $25.
My biggest problem was getting the damn alternator out. It was a seriously tight press fit in the alternator bracket. After removing the alternator bolt, the alternator had to be very forcefully pried free from the bracket with a 18" pry bar. To remount it, I had to grind about .020" material off the alternator.
nb
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In my case I didn't know about the brush holder replacement at the time and never thought to phone the dealer to ask.
I just picked up a set of replacement brushes for five bucks at a local rebuilders that was nice enough to sell them to me.
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