another flashing sports light

1990 Honda Accord automatic
If I drive enough that the car warms up, then shut it off and try to restart within a few minutes:
usually sports light flashes, but car starts. Have to shift manually
sometimes engine light stays on and car wont start. Wait 5-30 minutes and engine light goes off, car starts. Sometimes sports light still flashes and have to shift manually
If car sits more than a couple hours never have a problem.
Worse in warm weather.
Problem started a few years ago when engine was steam cleaned.
Mechanic replaced a relay under the dash with no effect.
I removed the backup fuse for 30 sec to reset codes. When problem happened I used paper clip on passenger side connector. I get the following codes: 1 2 7 8 14
Code list I got online:
1. Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted. 2. Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted. 3. Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted. 4. Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer. 5. Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted. 6. Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open. 7. Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted. 8. Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted. 9. Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted. 10. Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted. 11. Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted. 12. (No code 12 used) 13. Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted. 14. Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted. 15. Kick down switch circuit shorted.
Other than this problem car drives fine.
Diagnosis, suggestions, comments ?
Thanks
Gene
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Gene Wagenbreth wrote:

It's interesting that all the solenoids are signaling problems but it is highly unlikely that all of them are bad. Perhaps there's a loose ground in common. That steam cleaning might have breached some insulation at the solenoid connectors near the transmission too. I had a similar problem recently on my Prelude. I had to *completely* disassemble one of the solenoid connectors and clean it thoroughly.
If you or your mechanic get to inspect those connectors, measure the resistance of each solenoid while there. They're usually just a few dozen ohms maximum. If any reading is several hundred ohms that solenoid should be replaced.
--
Chuck



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