brake problems

I drive a 1991 Honda Accord LX and i have had to have the rotors replaced or turned almost every year since Ive owned the car (5 years). Is this normal or is something else causing this? It is hard
to believe that my rotors are warped this much. The vibrating now is usually while driving and then worsens when i brake.
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whose rotors are you using? If youre using offshore stuff, its really cheap, but costs in the long run.
"kp23" wrote: > I drive a 1991 Honda Accord LX and i have had to have the > rotors replaced or turned almost every year since I've owned > the car (5 years). Is this normal or is something else causing > this? It is hard to believe that my rotors are warped this > much. The vibrating now is usually while driving and then > worsens when i brake.
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kp23 wrote:

Have you had the calipers replaced?
Eric
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I put cheap rotors on my Accord a year ago ...and they are causing pedal pulsation.Warped.. But Ill wait for a bit, because its a real pain to change them..
"Eric" wrote: > kp23 wrote: > > > > I drive a 1991 Honda Accord LX and i have had to have the > rotors > > replaced or turned almost every year since Ive owned the > car (5 > > years). Is this normal or is something else causing this? It > is hard > > to believe that my rotors are warped this much. The > vibrating now is > > usually while driving and then worsens when i brake. > > > > Have you had the calipers replaced? > > Eric
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weasel wrote:

========================= There was a very good discussion last fall (with links to various sites) that dispelled the 'warped' theory (for me). Crap from the pads sticks to the rotor making it glazed, which makes it grabby. Cure wasn't easy, but possible.
Best explanation I've seen yet.
Anybody have that link ? ? ??
'Curly'
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motsco_ wrote:

that can happen, but it's not the sole cause.

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jim beam wrote:

It also would not explain physically measuring the warp with a run-out gauge. I've measured rotors that had 0.003" - 0.005" or more of warp.
Eric
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That's my take on pedal pulsations: there are probably multiple defects that have the same symptoms... or at least close enough to the same that we don't notice. My brakes worked a lot better after I started using a torque wrench on the lug nuts.
Mike
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Michael Pardee wrote:

and that's the #1 solution for a honda! but the antiseize thing definitely helps too. i've proven this to myself several times now - i had tires rebalanced on my civic and aside from crossing threads on the lug nuts, the monkeys that put the wheels back on with an impact driver created instantly "warped" disks. and i mean instantly. driving in, they were perfect, driving out, you thought the car was going to fall apart when you hit the brakes at speed. unfortunately, i didn't have time to attend to it right away, so when i did get the chance to re-torque, despite a couple of attempts with the torque wrench, it was much better, but not perfect. i wondered if the usage in that condition had permanently ruined them. finally, i scraped everything off and smeared a little antiseize on the hub face where the wheel goes, and suddenly, those "warped" disks were perfectly smooth again.
i think some people are skeptical about how much torque affects "warping" on hondas [tegger], but if you come from the frozen north and habitually use antiseize anyway, i think you won't notice it as much. likewise when you fit new disks, they're coated in a thin layer of anti-rust which is also a lubricant, and they seat properly. it's only when the hub faces lose the lubricant and corrode a little that the problem is so bad. here in california, while it's great our cars don't rust like they do up north, we consequently don't use antiseize very often and this brake thing seems to be a real problem. from now on, it's /always/ going to be on my hubs - and i use a torque wrench.
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Oh, thanks! now I dont have to feel guilty about cheaping out and installing "value" rotors! Perhaps cheap rotors and ceramic pads would be a good compromise! --Paul
"motsco_" wrote: > weasel wrote: > > I put cheap rotors on my Accord a year ago ...and they are > causing > > pedal pulsation.Warped.. > > But Ill wait for a bit, because its a real pain to change > them.. > > ========================= > > There was a very good discussion last fall (with links to > various sites) > that dispelled the 'warped' theory (for me). Crap from the > pads sticks > to the rotor making it glazed, which makes it grabby. Cure > wasn't easy, > but possible. > > Best explanation I've seen yet. > > Anybody have that link ? ? ?? > > 'Curly'
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See this excellent and comprehensive writeup: http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf100326.htm
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Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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See this excellent and comprehensive writeup: http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf100326.htm
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Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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Rear brakes that are not working properly will cause the front rotors to warp in a hurry. Had the rotors replaced/resurfaced 4 times, problem kept coming back every 1500 miles. The cause was the rear brakes were not working at all.

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afd wrote:

whoever told you that was blowing smoke. rear brakes hardly work at all under hard braking - that's what the proportioning valve is for. potting around town won't warp your disks.

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Fact remains, 0 rear brakes means the front do 100%. that additional 25-40% extra heat on the front rotors caused massive overheating. Btdt got the tea shirt.
Might not be common, but in my case it was the cause.
Wheel bolt torque has nothing to do with brake warping either, Drove a car for almost 2 years with 3 out of 4 lug nuts installed (didnt know it was missing) never had a brake problem on that car. Rust underneath the rotor/hub flange is a different story however, very frequent problem in the NW.

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l390f wrote:

that may be what you believe, but that belief is not based on sufficient information.

with respect, the temperature reached by disks, even in extreme use, is nowhere /near/ that necessary to actually warp. you can race an integra on standard 10.25" disks no problem, and those things get HOT.

not true. the hub on hondas is very lightweight - it elastically distorts if torque is not even.

2 years without inspection??? that's truly bizarre.

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It could be that Im describing Warped incorrectly. What I should be saying is that the uneven brake pedal pulsing went away when the rear brakes were repaired. IE the adjusters for the rear drums were r&r such that the rear shoes starting to work. It may have been "warping" the rotors in the front or there was uneven pad material transfer to the rotors. BTW the article from http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf100326.htm helped me change my terminology a bit.

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