CRX Sputter and Stumble then smooths out...

Meatman wrote in news:c97f3191-4503-4e28-a11c- snipped-for-privacy@l12g2000prg.googlegroups.com:

Throttle-body injection or port injection?

Tegger wrote in news:Xns9D3DC6882F268tegger@

208.90.168.18:

And do you have EGR?

I had a similar problem with one of my earlier Hondas with a brand new rebuilt carb and it ended up being a damaged power valve. Luckily, I stole one out of one of my kits.

JT

DX probably has a carb. I had an '89 for a short time and that's what that one had...

JT

Thinking more about this, maybe it was a throttle body. Car never ran for me as it had a cracked head and I sent it on its merry way...

JT

88? Could it be a vacuum advance issue, or was that all gone by then? Or maybe fuel delivery.

mg

throttle body. looks like a carb tho.

no, the 88 is throttle body injection.

check the ignition system. use plugs that have a solid cap on them, not screw cap. make sure the plug leads are good. use ngk plugs.

also, check the engine computer for codes - a failing throttle position sensor trips a code and has similar symptoms to what you're describing. but my money's on ignition problems.

OP's answers to your questions and some more tidbits that may help (or not).

TIDBITS: (problem existed prior to being parked at length) 1) Car has been parked for many months, say 10, and has had battery deplete or disconnected intermittently over that time. Has only been run 4 or 5 cold start cycles since. 2) Problem never arises immediately on cold- start. 3) Car is fuel injected.

ANSWERS:

1 - Throttle Body or Port INJ? Port. One fuel line from filter to very near the base of the throttle body.

2 - Do I have EGR? Never thought about it. Appears NO. Assuming it would be similar to my 98 Accord V6 (and 88 Buick) in design...then definitely no.

3 - Did I check for TP Sensor code? No flash codes yet...note TIDBITS/ drive cycles above. HOWEVER (and thank you!) I remember DEFINITELY, YES I was getting that TP code. Check engine light would come on and then reset with key-off every time. Code persisted. Then at some random time later Check Engine would reappear, and said random cycle would continue. I NOW remember noting that the TPSensor is "permanently" affixed with a type of rivet or similar and Honda says you have to buy the whole ass'y...can't buy just the TPSensor. Anyone ever worked around this? Drilled 'em out, etc, and replaced with yard part? Thanks again! Responses more than I expected. Kevin.

you should have said that. persistent codes are real faults.

when trying to do online problem diagnostics like this, please always always always say if there are any codes. it prevents a whole bunch of wasted electrons.

as for the sensor, it's easy enough to swap out. google this group [or rec.autos.makers.honda]. i've written about how to replace and calibrate a couple of times.

regarding replacement sensors, the one used on the 2-point injection throttle body is different from those used on the 4-point ones - both look the same, but one is left-handed and the other right-handed if you will. you can buy one sensor [per my posts] but i'm not sure you can easily get the one you need for the dx from anywhere but a junk yard. get one from an automatic [approx 5x fewer operations].

post back if you have more questions about how to replace once you've googled, and have a handle on the tools and procedure.

you are saying this is a fule injected

There is a hole inside your throttle body port about an inch in It should suck air into it at idle and then stop sucking when you give it more gas

There is a spring in there that you may be able to fix

I forget what it is but it will give you an erradic throttle Cant say this is your answer but its one of the things it could be

Try to find a manual good luck

While I wait on my part: Couple questions, please.

1) Got the TP sensor out (hacksaw blade...piece of cake, actually, just remove obstructions in advance). Popped it off clean from the TB and there was clearly fuel remaining behind in the TB where I removed the TPS. No gush, pour, or spurt, just some funky/dirty fuel lying at the bottom of the aluminum curvature after removal. Normal???

Stay with me here, please.

2) Similarly, I proceded to do a complete AUTOPSY on the TP Sensor itself, drilling through the outer casing with an Xacto and expanding the hole and then breaking the "top" wide open to the point of being exposed so I could see the contact points and circuit board and the whole guts. Clearly, gas had been everywhere whether by liquid or by vapor, I dunno. Not "wet" or drippy or sloppy, but guts of the sensor reeked of fuel too. Normal???

Just wanted your input before I go slapping things together pematurely. Yes, I own the HELMS manual and will break it out to look for seals and gaskets on th TB tomorrow. Thanks.