If what you wanted to know was the distance change from that spot and not the entire span, that would be the way to do it.
But he mentions that this was for measuring consumption only, not for deciding to add more. As long as he uses the same point of reference (like a specific spot on the bridge), he can accurately achieve his goal.
right, but you have to define the spots. saying you're measuring the bridge when you're really measuring from one side of the bridge to the next town is not right.
not unless he knows what the oil temperature is when he measures it - "cold" in his part of the world can be subject to a 50°C temperature delta - "hot" is maybe 10°C delta. and he has /no/ idea what his filter valve function is like. if he records how much he uses to refill hot, like the dipstick is calibrated for, then he'd be both consistent and eliminate the above variables.
that's a certified calibration. a calibration doesn't need to be certified.
eh? how? i don't call "cold" careful consideration when it's subject to a 50°C delta.
no, because some filters leak, some don't. a leaking valve gives an artificially high fill reading. if a filter does leak, the rate varies. and some filters can start leaking where they didn't before. so, how do you eliminate this variable? by taking a reading a short time after shut-down. that way, the filter leaking to empty in only 1 hour gives the [within usable accuracy limits] same reading as the filter that's taking a day.
it's damped - the spring has a polymer sleeve that stops that.
look again elle - one bolt has thread lock, the other doesn't. neither shows thread binding. the one with only the woodruff key shows a whole lot of rotational galling. if that kind of plain visual evidence doesn't "persuade", then not much will.
that's why i said "they're not cheap". but i went on to talk about value. i actually didn't buy mine for the pulley bolt, i bought it for a stubborn oxygen sensor removal that was looking like it could ruin a manifold. for that, it worked where nothing else would. and i've since found it to be exemplary for all kinds of rusted and stubborn fasteners where threads usually strip or bolts just shear. it has paid for itself many times in non-ruined parts alone. factoring in time and sweat, you can't beat it - it's a great investment.
You just revealed that you did not read Tegger's comments on what time of year he took measurements.
We disagree on how filter drainback averages out.
but i did. and that still doesn't address the fact that "the tegger method" will mislead anyone trying to emulate it - just like it's misleading him.
bottom line - it's his car - he can do what he wants with it. but do NOT encourage others in the mistaken myth that oil readings should be taken "cold" - they shouldn't.
then you don' t understand how reading taken two minutes into a
60-minute flow is not materially different from two minutes into a 600 minute flow. or how a non-leaking filter gives a different reading to a leaking one that's been given sufficient time to empty.
Never thought of an uncertified calibration as an actual calibration, just a point of reference.
His spot was defined, which was ambient temperature and on level ground (I believe that what was said, can't recall he exact wording).
The point of the dipstick being "calibrated" is arguable, at best.
technically, you're absolutely right, but in lay usage, something like this
but ambient is widely variable. taken to extreme, that could be -20°C or it could be +50°C. operating temperature for the oil in the pan otoh is a very narrow range. and that is the whole point.
well, it's marked for use under specific conditions. if those conditions are not met, the marking "calibration" doesn't work because of temperature, valve leakage, etc.
in an earlier thread [this has been rumbling on for a while], i mentioned the situation with something like the chrysler torque-flite transmission. it's "calibrated" to be read at operating temperature, with the motor [and thus the transmission oil pump] running. if the motor is off, and the oil is cold, the read oil level will be about 3" above that of where it's supposed to read. there is no possible argument that there is no point following factory procedure in that case. and although the result differences are not as dramatic for honda engine oil reading, the same principle applies here - because time and temperature after shut-down affect the oil level, the oil reading should be taken as per the factory specification, not per some vague supposition or underinformed notion.
I can agree with that description.
Don't know where he lives, but yes, there could be a fairly large delta due to changes in ambient conditions. Of course, this could be accounted for based on the CTE if the ambient temperature was logged.
As mentioned previously, graduated (same as marked) is acceptable, though I would still think of it as a point of reference....but I don't want to beleaguer the point.... As far as valve leakage...how prevalent is this? I don't recall experiencing this happening over the years.
I don't know where he lives, and what the temperature delta was. As I mentioned, if one uses the CTE to calculate the volume change, it would probably be more accurate. In looking at the supplied data, there is a fairly large standard deviation/range for the seven first
1,000 mile readings (about 200 miles or about 12%-13%). I would think if one is trying to see if oil consumption changes over miles driven, it may be better to chart each 1,000 mile readings (1st, 2nd, 3rd) individually to see how they trend. I haven't followed this thread that closely...would you know what the values on the graph in the file at each datum? Is it ambient temperature?Elle wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@q12g2000yqj.googlegroups.com:
That's correct.
snipped-for-privacy@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in news:i0gq85$55t$ snipped-for-privacy@theodyn.ncf.ca:
Since I help the tensioner with my hand, I don't rely much on the spring. However, the spring is only about $10, so replacing it certainly isn't a bad idea.
snipped-for-privacy@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in news:i0gt4v$8dn$ snipped-for-privacy@theodyn.ncf.ca:
There's a plastic sleeve covering the coils.
"Stewart" wrote in news:i0h62i$67g$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:
snipped-for-privacy@s9g2000yqd.googlegroups.c
Always checked at ambient temperature, and always checked with the car sitting in the exact same spot, facing the exact same way.
The /calibration/ of the dipstick isn't important. What IS important is that I use the same dipstick, inserted the same way, each time.
are you using a belt tensiometer to measure instead? if not, then you don't know more about the application than the manufacturer does. to simply guess and tension above the spec set by the carefully selected procedure and equipment provided to you by the manufacturer is potentially very harmful and you shouldn't be recommending it to others..
do you replace the mounting bolt as well? replacing a non-wearing part is utterly illogical.
which is always wrong
facing the same way? is oil geomagnetic? or is the vehicle not on level ground?
it's much more important to read the owners manual.
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