I am trying to perform several tasks that all seem to end up the same --
stymied by a rusted, stripped, immobile screw, bolt, or connector. (My car
is a 99, driven eight winters on salt-laden streets.)
The latest is the retaining screw that holds the air tube on the throttle
body which won't budge no matter what I've tried. If I could get it off,
I'd like to remove and clean the throttle body but I have no idea what
obstacles that will present. I'm also trying to get to the IACV which is
way behind the throttle. The one screw I can see looks rusty to me, and I'm
put off by attacking the ones I can't see. I also need to remove the
distributor and expect to find similar obstacles in that job.
Any advice, tricks, tips etc. for dealing with these energy-sapping
obstacles would be appreciated. Thanks.
Your diagrams are at www.slhondaparts.com and PB Blaster seems to be
good stuff for pre-soaking sticky nuts. Beware it might dissolve some
HOSES. As for cleaning the throttle body you can do a basic job by
reaching in and cleaning the throttle plate and inside with a dampened
cloth, after removing the rubber intake tube.
Like Curly wrote, PB Blaster is the best stuff around for
freeing rusty bolts and screws. It's available for a few
dollars a can at Autozone, Wal-Mart, etc. Tapping on the
bolt or screw can help shake some rust off, too. Soak with
the PB Blaster, tap, soak again, try to unfasten.
Post specific instances here, and people can give more
advice, depending on the scenario. And there are a lot of
PB Blaster is the stuff to use! the only thing I have ever found that
I liked as much as PB was Valvoline Synthetic lube but I can't find
the stuff any more. You will want to use six point sockets rather than
a twelve point socket, you will have a lot smaller chance of stripping
the head off of the bolt. If you have any rusted bolts that give you a
lot of trouble or look rough I would replace the bolt.
Use a set of angled needle-nose pliers and turn the shaft of the screw.
Failing that, use a Dremel to cut the screw in half. Replace the
assembly with a regular worm-type hose clamp, which, oddly enough, fits
A new correct clamp assembly is about $10 at the dealer.
You can also lever the air hose off the throttle body, but be careful
not to damage it or the aluminum casting.
On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 09:50:21 -0400, John Smith wrote:
GM Penatrant/Lubricant. Get it at a GM parts counter (yes, GM *DOES*
actually make something worthwhile! ;)
Runs $8~12 depending how much of a discount the parts guy gives you...
Spray anything you want to work on a day in advance. Spray everything
I had a Toyota Tercel that had the usual rust/corrosion, and sprayed them
with this stuff. Teo days later they looked NEW! Periodic sprays kept them
looking new, and made them easy to remove.
Assuming the nut is accessible enough, clamp a pair of locking pliers
(Vise-Grips or similar) down on the nut. If the nut is not a small one you
will probably have to use as much strength as possible. Spray the threads at
the end of the nut with penetrant and let it set a few minutes. Remove the
pliers and repeat on as many pairs of sides as are accessible.
I've used this over the years with nuts that just wouldn't break loose
otherwise and have had success every time - except when the nuts were
totally rusted, of course. The pressure of the pliers forces the threads to
bottom out and opens up gaps 90 degrees away. The penetrant gets in and has
an opportunity to work where it might otherwise be locked out. Now, if only
there were an equivalent for bolts or that stupid retaining screw....
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.