The answer is definitly yes. Case in point. 1999 Isuzu Trooper, always
garaged. 35,000 miles, four months over warranty, exhaust from cat
back, warranty denied, $1200 for Isuzu parts on line. 51,000 miles,
fuel tank-fuel pump-sending unit, all rusted beyond repair. $1450 to
repair at closest garage.No Isuzu dealers in sight, they dropped the
line. Closest dealer offered to check the leak for $100 but assured me
there would be no warranty as did Isuzu corporate.. I think no more Jap
cars. Three new Maximas, one new Toyota, probably five other new cars
but never a money pit like this.
This is VERY true. It is the heating, sweating and melting in a garge
for engine heat that greatly increases rusting. My wifes 200 cherokee
has never been garge kept and it does not have any rust on it or under
it yet and we live in the salt belt too. I found out by accident about
30 years ago. WHen my parents moved to the country they did not have a
garage for several years (out buildings but no close garage) and they
left their cars out. Prior to moving there by dad's car would start
showing rust after about 2 years from new when being garage kept but
when kept out side it was still pretty much rust free after 5 years and
170K miles and it was not form improved factory protection either.
I've heard this before, but think it's over-rated. The water is
hitting flat pieces of sheetmetal and bouncing off. Some gets into
panel gaps. I don't see any real "forcing" of water into strange
places any different from where rain-water would drip. Plus, those
"hidden" places aren't what's going to rust first. What's going to
rust first are areas where the paint has been damaged by rocks and
the wrap-around weld on the door and hatch edges (especially on fords),
followed closely by the wheel arches where salt-laden crud and sand gets
jammed against the inside of the steel, after sneaking past the fender
liner. Certain AMCs and Chryslers from a few years ago had a big problem
with the front fenders- there was an actual ledge in there where salt-laden
sand would be packed against the inside of the top of the fender, and stay
there till you cleaned it out by hand. With due respect to Japanese cars,
which I own one of and basically love, I don't see many older ones around
here that aren't totally bananna-spotted with rust. Guess they don't salt
back home in Japan, so the engineers didn't spec coated steel or whatever.
Now that many/most are made here in NA, maybe that has changed.
I'v had some luck, in years I wasn't too lazy, with saturating the door
edges and under the hood with cheap spray wax mixed with hot water. Sorta
like the shipping wax the manufacturers used to use. Gotta do this in the
fall before the weather turns, however, and it is pretty easy to forget in
the rush of real life.
But having said all that- I still get the cars bottom-washed whenever there
is a thaw, if it lasts long enough for the lines to die down. And now that I
have a garage (non-heated, but house leakage probably keeps it barely below
freezing at worst), not scraping the glass in the mornings is worth the
increased rust of the temp cycling to me. Neither of my current heaps is
anywhere near collectible, and I drive the rusty one when the roads are
white. I doubt it makes a significant difference- if sun comes out on a
snowy day, greenhouse effect gets my car hot enough to melt off all the snow
anyway. Very annoying to come out at 1700, and the doors are frozen from
refrozen meltoff. (Also been too lazy to silicone the weatherstrip the last
"Most use clean water for everything. "
Is this true? I'm pretty sure the local one uses recycled water. And
unless water was free or really cheap, I would think most would recycle
at least the wash water?
i agree, i've been there as well (in the south)
always been municipal water into a holding tank of some sort, that fed the
pumps, some times with water softners to help soap and wax treatments do
their jobs easier and of course prevent spotting etc.. the water drained to
sewer, all the crud stuck in the PIT, when the PIT was full the crud stayed
and the bays just flooded
definately would not want recylced water shooting on my car.
Here in Montreal'surbs we get even more salt than you do...
CW says keep the car away from heated garages. There may be an
electrical effect if the garage floor is bare concrete (which does
conduct) and this might affect rusting. Might not.
I kept one Accord in an appartment garage many years ago and it did not
have any effect that I could tell ... there was a little rust after 8
years. I did wash the car every couple weeks, however and that surely
helped (though not underneath). I sometimes put my car in my garage in
the winter, but I've blocked off the heat so the temp is usually just
The best is an unheated garage. That keeps the snow off. If it's
really cold, use a block heater for an hour before you use the car in
the morning and it heats up pretty quick afterwards.
White cars seem to rust quickest. I believe it's because moisture
behind the panels stays longer whereas darker colours heat up in the sun
and evaporate the moisture quicker.
I live on Long Island, NY.
We use a nice mix of 30% salt and the rest sand.
Yeah our cars rust nicely and all turn white when we drive
in the winter (hint, its not the snow that makes the cars white)
I have a 92 sentra that has always been garaged. What I found
is that between the cars I own (altima and infiniti) the 92 sentra
was always garaged DOES show very little rust on it. The other cars
are newer and do have more corrosion on the undercarage.
Just my 2 cents.
The speed of corrosion is increased with temperature. The theory is you
drive in salty roads and then when garaged the vehicle is subjected to above
freezing temperatures and allows more corrosion.
When salt spray tests are performed the temperatures are elevated to promote
corrosion to speed up testing.
I do not know if being garaged will in fact be worse but I guess it could.
The fact is a warmer vehicle vs. a colder vehicle with the same corrosion
environment will corrode faster where it can.
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