Help! Oil Drain Bolt Stuck on '92 Accord

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Hi: I am trying to change the oil on my '92 accord (for the first time), but the drain bolt is so tight it seems as thought it's virtually welded onto the pan. NOTHING has worked so far. Not a box
wrench, not a socket head, nothing. The mechanic who used his air gun to tighten the bolt at the last tune-up has given entirely new meaning to the term "over-torqued". Any ideas on how to get this off without ruining the threads? It appears to be a 17 mm hex nut with good sides, i.e. it isn't rounded...yet!!! Thanks. - Paul S.
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On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 00:44:11 -0400, Paul S wrote:

If you don't already have a 17MM 6-point socket, go and find a GOOD one...DON'T get the cheapest thing you can find! 1/2" drive is preferrable. Also, get a 1/2" "Breaker Bar", a socket wrench that doesn't ratchet, the longer the better. AutoZone may loan them to you (you have to deposit with your Credit Card). Try to loosen it this way. MAKE SURE THE SOCKET IS SNUG!!! If there's any play at all, try a different / different brand of socket. If you still can't break it loose, get a rubber mallet and whack the end of the breaker bar with the mallet until it starts to loosen.
Good Luck!
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Hi: Thank you for the suggestions! I don't have Autozone in my area (to my knowledge), but PartSource is quite comparable and I'll definitely give them a try. - Paul S.
wrote:

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If you plan to keep doing your own oil changes (which I would do if the mechanic uses a air wrench to tighten that bolt), the craftsman 1/2" breaker bar works quite well. It, and I'm sure there are comparable ones by other companies, is about fifteen to eighteen inches long which will give you plenty of user supplied torque.
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On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 05:40:37 -0400, C R wrote:

Once he gets the bolt out, he shouldn't need one! (Um, DON'T encourage him to tighten it more than needed! ;)
Better investment would be a TORQUE Wrench!!! (And the spec for the oil plug...)
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Agreed on getting the bolt out only part, definitely don't use a breaker bar to tighten. Should have been more specific.
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On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 19:31:34 -0400, C R wrote:

I had a feeling that's what you meant! ;)
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Hi: Thanks for that advice. Yeah, I was going to use a torque wrench...in fact, a really great electronic (digital) one which I just got as a gift. Should be fun...a lot more fun than getting the bolt off. - Paul S.
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Thank you...that certainly gives me a better idea what to look for. A couple more related questions:
1) since I found it easier to remove the front driver's tire to do the oil work, does anyone happen to know what the recommended torque spec is (in ft. lbs) for the lug bolts on a '92? What about an '04 accord?
2) how about the torque on the new drain plug, once I get the old one off?
Thanks again. - Paul S.
wrote:

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On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 19:52:46 -0400, Paul S wrote:

Generally, 12mm (thread size) lug nuts are 90-100 ft lbs.

Someone said 21 Ft Lbs. I do it with a wrench until the washer crushes.

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From www.autozone.com , '92 Accord Repair Guide, 80 ft-lbs (same as my 91 Civic's).

Try the free owner's manual resources listed at http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id9.html

33 ft-lbs, from http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/AccordManual/400/5-4.pdf
Also the same as my 91 Civic's.
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Many, many thanks! - Paul
On Wed, 04 Apr 2007 05:44:40 GMT, "Elle"

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Ahhhhhhhhhhhh! Ouch!
Do you have ANY idea how fragile the drain bolt threads are?

If the bolt is _that_ tight, there's a good chance the threads are distorted and are binding. In other words, the pan threads are damaged.
Once you break the bolt loose, you'll probably find it won't spin off freely, and you'll have to crank it around with a wrench until it's off.
If you find this happens, that butcher of a mechanic of yours needs to cough up the cost of a fix.
--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
  Click to see the full signature.
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Hi Tegger: Thanks again for your input...you really helped me with that bad Honda battery issue (I ended up getting an Optima "Red Top" at Walmart which is working great), and now with my drain bolt saga. I know what you mean about the "ouch" part.....I have a real fear that the bozo who got trigger happy with his air gun might have cross threaded the bolt and ruined the pan. I recall all too vividly shelling out $350 USD for a new oil pan on my old Jetta back in the mid '80's when a similar event occurred at the dealership. In that particular case, I eventually got Toyota to cover my cost. Looks a bit like deja vu now with the Accord, though the last oil change was not done at Honda. I'll hope for the best and see what happens after I finally get the bolt off. - Paul S.
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Oh boy...LONG day. I meant to say Volkswagon, NOT Toyota!!! - Paul

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The good news is the drain bolt threads are pretty tough. The bad news is the ones in the pan are not. I'd guess you may need a new oil pan after getting this thing out.
Who the hell uses an air gun to put a drain plug in?
This is the reason I trust nobody with my car. To these guys, quick is always better than right. Add 5 minutes to get the torque wrench out, and set it. Tighten the bolt. They look at it as 5 minutes of lost earnings.
BTW, I don't use a torque wrench on mine. After xx years of doing this, you can feel how tight it should be. And ALWAYS use a new crush washer on the drain plug.
I'll use my 24v impact driver to take lug nuts off, but they always go back on my hand and are torqued by hand. When I get new tires, I take the wrench with me, and make the mechanic just hand tighten them. I have had too many warped rotors from the grease monkeys hitting them with an impact driver.
G-Man

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Hi G-Man: Thank you for the rant....I fully agree with everything you said about not being able to trust other people with your car. Of course that's not always the case, but usually so. At least in my painful experience. I stopped by Honda and picked up an OEM drain bolt and washer...their washer just looked more substantial than the generic ones. I am a bit frightened of an impact gun since I've never used one before and don't want to warp anything. If worse comes to worse then there IS a guy about twenty miles from me whom I sure could get the bolt off, assuming everything I try with it comes to naught. - Paul S.
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wrote:

perhaps someone used thread locking material to keep it from coming loose and really didn't pound it on like that. I think the torque spec for our civic is 21ft/lb. I'll make another vote for a good 6 point socket ... and be careful.
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JeB wrote:

And, one last jibe, are you turning in the correct direction?
Righty, tightly, lefty, loosey
Or, clockwise to tighten, counter clockwise to loosen. Except, on Nash Ramblers built before 1968, on the driver's side wheel spindle! They used left hand threads on many cars built before 1970, on the Left Side of the vehicles, on the wheel spindles.
But, really, when we are laying down on our backs, often we become somewhat dyslexic.
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"Linuxiac" <"at yahoo.com "> wrote in message

And the driver's side lug nuts on old Chryslers. The first car I drove was my mother's '64 Dodge, and when it had a driver's wheel flat I thought I was just too weak to get it off. Then somebody told me about the threads....
Mike
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