Honda Accord 94 - ignition problem

Hi,
recently I have encountered the following problem on my Honda Accord '94.
|Sometimes|, when I try to run the ignition it cranks, seems to start for half a second (speedometer shows
something) and then nothing (dies). Also all indicators seems to go off after that. If I turn the key to off, and try again sometimes the engine starts, sometimes not. If I insist it always starts (so far at least!).
I checked the battery, seems fine (12.5V). I recently also replaced sparks and rotor cap, so these hopefully should be fine.

1. fuel injection main relay 2. starter 3. fuel pump
Any more concrete suggestions from what I described??
TIA michael
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My money's on the main relay, but follow the checks in the link. In your Accord, the main relay is attached under the top of the dash right above the driver's knees (LHD), above a module (cruise control IIRC). Don't try to unbolt the relay, but pry the tabs a bit and pull the guts out to repair or replace.
One more tip - main relays typically give more trouble when the interior of the car is hot than when it is cold.
Mike
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As far as the hotness is concerned, it did start having problems only recently...and it's *very* hot in NY.
michael
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Also, today when I tried to start the car, I noticed that sometimes the dashboard indicators didn't light on when the key was in the "on" position (first time is happened I think).
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

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Thanks for the help. Any chances it's the main relay? Are there any indications to find out which?
If it's the relay I should not hear the fuel pump in the beginning? (Not sure how that sounds, but it does seem awfully quiet...not sure though)
thanks! michael
jim beam wrote:

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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

relay often shows a code 16 on the ecu. but the symptoms you describe, dead gauges, are not main relay.

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thank you for the advice. It seems it was the ignition switch.
I tried the ignition switch with a screwdriver before putting it to place and the car started and the lights turned on when at position "II".
To take the old one off was very tricky (don't know people on the websites describe it in 3 steps!) We had to disassemble it, otherwise there was no space to take it out. Also, putting the ignition switch in place took very long time, because we had to disassemble and assemble it again to put it to place.
Now for the bad news and to make the long story short... It seems that the first time we put it back, we didn't place the clip on (which holds the prongs in place), so when we put the wires on the switch probably some of the ignition switch prongs were pushed back. When we turned the engine on again (using the key now
), something shorted and burned (we heard a 'tsaf'). When I opened the fuse box
it looks like the part on the bottom right where some cables come in the fuse
box burned.
Next time that we tried to crank the engine, there is no crank and I see some small indication of smoke from the negative pole of the battery(!).
After that we placed the ignition switch properly, but the bad was already done. So now, when turning key to ignite:
0. At "II" indicators will light 1. At "III" no crank 2. Smoke from neg. battery pole 3. Bottom right part of fuse box when some cables come in, seems to be burned. (will post picture if necessary) 4. Battery is ok though (still at 12.5v)
Thanks for your previous advice. Any suggestions now? Can that burned part be replaced? I think I have to cut some cables and reconnect them. I hope I don't screw up more after that...
michael
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in

Now take it to a shop competent in auto electric repairs!!!
Before you burn your car up further,and maybe your garage with it.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
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Jim Yanik wrote:

to the op, you can't just mess about with this stuff if you don't know what you're doing. if you had the proper [helm] manual, it would have helped you significantly, otherwise you must seek the counsel of someone that /has/ done it before and /does/ know what they're doing. "learning on the job" in this situation is potentially very expensive. is your home owners insurance paid?
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Without reading all the posts, I'll suggest the Honda method of swapping the ignition switch, as per the recall procedure: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/x02-031e.pdf
It says it applies to 1997, but I'm sure it's CLOSE for yours. Disconnect the battery. Saves on 'spitzensparken'.
'Curly'
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