How Hard is DIY Valve Adjustment?

Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have the serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old Volvo pushrod engines, but nothing like this. It sounds like the adjustment
mechanism is surprisingly similar, though: set screw and locknut. So, any tricks? Is this something best left to a seasoned mechanic? I have the Chilton manual.
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mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:

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For better control / leverage, it's nice if you have a long-handle combination wrench, like the 'pro' series one I picked up. It's even nicer if you have the tool that holds the locknut and has a screwdriver built it. GOOGLE 'powerbuilt 648828' or similar, depending on the size of the '95's locknut. I have one but haven't used it yet.
'Curly'
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motsco_ wrote:

I was going to use a torque wrench. That isn't critical?
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It *most certainly* is.
I do my valves every year. I use no special tools, just a flat-blade screwdriver, a 12mm wrench and a feeler gauge set.
The critical thing to do is to make certain the cam lobes you check are pointing stright up to the sky. This ensures their ramps are nowhere near the rocker mechanism, so cannot affect readings.
Turn engine COUNTER-clockwise with your ratchet. If you have need to go the other way, do that only for fine-tuning of cam position. Never turn clockwise more than a degree or two.
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Tegger

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Tegger wrote:

I assume you mean a torque wrench with 12mm socket. ;-) I was hoping to turn the engine by rolling the car in gear. Any problem with that approach? I don't remember if the manual gives the bolt size - is 12mm applicable to my '95 EX?
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mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote: . . . .I was hoping

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Yes, you'll run out of room on your driveway before you get your valves all adjusted :-)
Once you slip out the spark plugs the engine turns over easily with the Power Steering nut. (depending on the model)
Engine should be STONE COLD too, at least on the GEn 1 CR-V it's true.
'Curly'
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"mjc13" wrote:

There is no need for a torque wrench. In addition, you may want to take a look at one of my prior posts where I discuss the general technique for adjusting valves. http://tinyurl.com/2bf5qf
Eric
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Eric wrote:

There may not be a need for a torque wrench if you either have done the job before or instinctively know what 14 lb/ft feels like, but I'd prefer not to risk those aluminum rocker arms.
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mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:

i don't think you should attempt this job at this time. it requires experience and some degree of mechanical aptitude. judging by your other posts and your reaction to responses, you don't appear to have either. in fact, your motivation appears to be more recreational than anything else.
if you're serious about learning, sign up for evening classes. otherwise leave alone. a fouled up valve adjustment can cost you a lot of money.
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jim beam wrote:

I guess that establishes you as a troll. Before I filter you, I'll again note that I've done valve adjustments - on steel rocker assemblies, 30 years ago. Caution isn't the same as ineptitude, and sarcasm isn't the same as wisdom.
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Jim is absolutely right, and he's no troll.
But you are neither cautious nor inept; you are just woefully uninformed.
If you do not know the proper procedure for turning the engine over, and do not know what tools are required to do the job, then you are risking severe engine damage.
I suggest getting the Helm manual (NOT a Chilton or Haynes), and reading some basic auto maintenance texts. ( wwww.helminc.com or eBay)
Actually, I'm scheduled to perform my annual valve check on my DOHC Integra this weekend. Maybe I'll take some pics.
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You really, really, need a good shop manual. You clearly have no idea what's involved. www.helminc.com
Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Now get down and peek inside the wheel well at the splash shield inboard of the wheel. See the big round rubber plug? Pop that out and you can use a 19mm socket on a long extension to turn the engine counterclockwise.
The 12mm wrench is for loosening and tightening the locknuts that hold the valve adjustment. The screwdriver is for the threaded adjusters.
The torque wrench (and 12mm socket) is for making sure the locknuts are snugged up properly and will not vibrate loose on you.
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Tegger wrote:

Not true. You misunderstood me.

Ok, that's how I turn the crankshaft. I was hoping there was another way to accomplish that, but I can do the above - which the Chilton manual doesn't mention, at least in this context. I'm not a big fan of using crank pulley bolts to turn engines, that's all.

I understand that perfectly well - the old Volvo motors had a very similar design at the rocker arms. I also know how to use the feeler guage!

And I understand that as well. I was trying to confirm that 12mm was the correct size for this particular engine. Hopefully it is, or if it isn't I'll have the correct size.
No offense, but the Volvo and Camry techs seem to be nicer. ;-)
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The factory service manual is free online for this Honda. See http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html
Based on what you say below, I think you can do this. Just ask questions here when something seems amiss. Do not assume.
in message

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Elle wrote:

I did look at that manual - thanks again for the link. As for asking questions... not in this newsgroup, I think. You're the only one who seems to be reading what I'm actually writing.

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