In the process of trying to replace my O2 (Oxygen) sensor on my 1993
honda civic EX, I broke the old one off. I tried some usual stuff,
knocking it with a hammer, liberal WD-40, running the car for a bit to
heat up the manifold. Anyway, TINK! it broke. Any suggestions?
Two pictures of the sensor and manifold
First of all, WD-40 is not a penetrating oil, claims to the contrary by
the manufacturer and thousands of users notwithstanding. It's a little
late now, but really, you should have used Kroil, PB Blaster, or one of
the other purpose-made penetrating oils rather than WD-40. Guess you
will remember that next time :/
Now as to your immediate situation - that sucker is broken off in a very
difficult way. I would personally suggest, if you have access, dropping
the downpipe so the bottom of the manifold is open, and then trying to
drill it out with successively larger drill bits. If you are lucky the
drill bit will "catch" and spin the remaining piece out into the
manifold (this is why I suggested dropping the downpipe.) If you are
less than lucky, you'll end up drilling it out to the threads, in which
case a spark plug thread chaser tap should clean them up.
You may find it easier to remove the manifold from the car; I haven't
ever worked on a Honda so I don't know how difficult access is vs.
Needless to say, put some anti-seize on the threads of the new O2
sensor, and next time you go to replace one, before you get to the point
of breakage, try heating the manifold around the sensor with a torch,
pref. oxyacetylene if you have access to one.
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
Liquid Wrench penetrating oil. Soak repeatedly. Then pull all the
garbage out of the center of the O2 sensor that is still in the
manifold, and use an EZ OUT, or just drill the sucker with a large
drill bit until it spins off on its own.
WD 40 is $hit in a can.
Or you can also use a pipe tool that when you turn it counterclockwise,
will grab the inside of whatever is left in there and will come out. I had
a similar problem with my lawn tractor.... the drain pipe for the oil was
way too short and wanted to lenghten it. Well somehow, it broke off right at
the edge of the engine block and I used one of those pipe tools that goes
inside. I got it at home repo (depot) for not too much.
Hmm, I've never seen what you're describing, but it sounds like
something to add to the bag o' tricks. Is this a plumbing tool? I will
have to look next time I'm at Home Despot.
PS - I have never had any luck with EZ-outs. They always seem to break
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
Yes, they are sold at home depot....when i had this problem, i didn't
know what to do either until I went there and started asking around..... one
of the people there showed me it....and told me it works wonders...forgot
how much it is, but I don't think it was too much.... it comes in three
sizes....well the one i have did...
just don't bite well enough.
I had a thought, though. The threads are jammed because they have tried to
weld together, with the "pull" direction being the main force. When the
EZ-out is seated, how about a few judicious taps with a hammer (or whatever
will fit in the space available) on the end of the EZ-out to try to weaken
Me too. I wonder if I am doing something wrong? I usually end up breaking
the EZ-out in the screw I need to remove. That then makes the job twice
as hard since the EZ-outs are so hard.
I think it's a matter of drilling a deep enough hole for the EZ-out to go
into,if you don't get deep enough,the stress is at the EZ-out's
thinner,weaker section.That may be why some like the shorter,square-type of
Also,the EZ-out,when biting into the screw,expands it,and makes it harder
The EX-out has to be hard in order to bite into the screw and not get
chewed up itself.It's hardened tool steel.
Some people prefer a left-handed drill bit,where the drill is used in
reverse and aids in turning out the screw while drilling into it.
option available, then it's better than nothing in a pinch). It works well
for cleaning up oily tools, for getting wet ignitions going, and leaves a
nice smell on your hands; manly (sorry, Elle) and pleasant. It will also
restore ribbons if you have a dot matrix printer around. Some people have
used it as diesel starting fluid, but I've never had the occasion.
When I was a cyclist I used the WD-40 chain lube system. Every weekend I'd
spray the "power train" (chain and everything) with Gunk, hose it off, and
spray it with WD-40. It's a lazy way to keep the chain clean and lubricated
enough for light use, but the chain does wear faster than it does with real
chain lube. Oddly, sometimes bicycle brakes work better (don't chatter, more
even grip) if the rim is wiped with a bit of WD-40... testament to the
limitations of WD-40 as a lubricant.
Sure, if all a man wants around him is other manly
I advise "Goop" or similar, followed by ordinary soap, then,
for men, cologne or aftershave. (Tip: Amazing how huggable
men are when the scent of even a little aftershave is in the
air--I'm not proud of it, but with enough aftershave, I'll
swoon even before men of a different political party
Anything but that WD-40 (or PB Blaster, etc.) odor...
I've stopped bringing penetrating oils into the house for
even little cleanup jobs at the kitchen sink, because they
make the whole house reek for a day.
Happiest of New Years to all. Be safe, find peace.
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