I broke off my Oxygen sensor

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SoCalMike wrote:


I use it to clean off my tools. It gets gunk and dirt off really well. I then rub a drop of oil with STP (that oil additive they tell you to use on old engines) on it to keep the rust at bay.
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Danny Beardsley wrote:

yeesh. some options, in no particular order-
junkyard manifold new manifold new header take it to a machine shop- let them get it out and rethread it you drill it out/rethread it hammer big flathead screwdriver into it, try to turn judicious use of an air chisel, big flathead, try to turn
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Might try a radial cut with a small hacksaw blade.
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wrote:

That's what I had to do with my 40 year old bathtub drain. I had to make 2 cuts, one on each side, about 120 degrees apart from eachother, and then the entire affair collapsed in on itself with a little help from a screwdriver and a hammer.
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That sounds like a good idea, if there is room to get it.
Mike
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Soak with PB Blaster an hour. Try an EZ-Out, some tapping (vibrations work wonders, like Michael suggests). EZ-Outs often fail, but they often work, too. They may be had at Autozone. Otherwise, what others said.
In my experience, PB Blaster is superior to Liquid Wrench, by a lot. They are about the same price. PB Blaster worked great on my exhaust system bolts last year, though the closer I got to the manifold, the tougher freeing bolts became.
Updates are welcome. Good luck.

on my 1993

usual stuff,

for a bit to

suggestions?
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HEAT. Grab a torch (MAPP or propane will work just take a bit longer) Heat the remaining part and the manifold till it is red hot and then spray it with some good lube(Kroil, PB Blaster or the like NOT WD40). It will smoke like crazy. Let it cool and wipe it off. Now heat it again and drive a tapered square style EZ OUT in good. let it set a bit and turn it out. should come out easily this way.
--
Steve Williams
Near Cooperstown, New York
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"Steve W." wrote:

Heat was going to be my recommendation as well (though without spraying it with penetrating oil while it was hot). Once it's hot, try using the EZ out. Though, I tend to prefer the spiral fluted extractors over the taper square style. In addition, make sure that you're not putting a side load on the extractor, just a twisting load. Side loads tend to make them brake. If you're going to drill it, then be sure to use left handed drill bits since they will help to loosen the remaining piece from the threads. Still, it looks like there's enough rust in there to require heating with a torch.
Eric
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Danny Beardsley wrote:

If it were my car I would: Not bother with any sort of solvent - IMO it's a waste of time. 1) Knock the center of it down into the exhaust pipe. 2) Use a hacksaw blade to saw slits into the remaining threads. 3) Knock the slit pieces into the exhaust pipe. 4) Install new O2 sensor.
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Paul wrote:

if room permits, a sawzall would make quick work of that

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SoCalMike wrote:

Yes. That never even dawned on me. And I'm usually the first one to reach for my air or electric tools.
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" Paul " <"=?x-user-defined?Q??= Paul
SoCalMike wrote:

Yes. That never even dawned on me. And I'm usually the first one to reach for my air or electric tools.
This poses another problem..... you will get one hell of a rattle in the exhaust pipe until its removed...
Fwed
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wrote:

He could trying using a magnetic retrieval tool to pick up any pieces left in the pipe.
It looks like the sawblade suggestion is worth a try, but personally I would consider it as the last resort. Twisting it out with some kind of long-handled tool would be my first attempt. We can see what happened with his first attempt. It broke the sensor off. Now you just have to twist it out with that pipe gizmo you said you can buy at Home Depot or somesuch.
In fact, I am going there tomorrow just to look for such a thing. What is it called? Maybe I will see it in the plumbing department.
Lg
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Earlier on, I had recommended a tool that is used for metal piping. Its a plumbers tool and when turned counterclockwise, it grabs the inside of whats left and turns it out. It works so simply, its like you were just taking the thing out without any effort. I think since he hasn't posted back, he is probably out looking for the item....the set i have comes in 3 different sizes.
Fwed
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Lawrence Glickman wrote:

Easy-Out. There are all kinds of them. I have most of them. Great time saver, but not for this application. The metal is too thin to grab. http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors
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On Mon, 02 Jan 2006 01:28:16 GMT, " Paul " <" Paul

Yes, that's what I have, although I don't recall where and when I bought them. Easy-Out. Probably came mixed in with some pipe stuff I bought at Sears ( Crapsman ) at one time.
A lot of good ideas here. Many good ideas. Take your pick. Of course, a lot depends on where the sensor is located...how easy it is to get at, how much room there is to work on it.
Still, I don't see this as an End of the World scenario. I'm thinking time and patience will get it out, without doing any damage to the surrounding equipment.
I have a can of *Blaster* penetrating oil out in the garage. Man does that stuff STINK! But whatever. It might be a good idea to repeately apply that while tapping on what is left of the O2 sensor to help the *stuff* work its way down into the threads, presuming there are any threads left, and they haven't all turned to rust by now.
I have some fasteners that are so far rusted, so far gone ( exhaust hangers and such ) that the only way I can imagine getting them off is to cut them off with a disc grinder. They sell em at Harbor Freight for not much money.
In this case, it might make sense to remove the piece of manifold and take it down to the basement workshop where the OP can take his time and beat this piece of metal into submission.
Lg
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Forgot to mention, Easy-Outs don't work well on rusted or overly tight things without heating the object red-hot with oxy-actyl torch first.
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I'd be tempted to forget removing it and simply drill a new hole and tap it. I think I would be done in an hour including a trip to the store for the tap if I didn't have one, but I do.
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In article

Did you even bother to look at the pictures?
If he leaves it as is, he's going to have a hell of an exhaust leak, not to mention that there's not likely to be sufficient meat in any other area of the manifold to mount an O2 sensor.
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aarcuda69062 wrote:

Maybe he can just take the whole manifold off and take it to a welding shop or such and have them remove it, and then re install it?
Bob
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