i think my joint is damaged on the wheel, but not sure

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Hi guys,
I am not sure what the name of part that is damaged. I had a new belt installed on my A/C compressor, and the guy said that I needed to get
my left wheel fixed.
The rubber is broken off as you can see in the picture, but what I am trying to do is figure out the name of the part that I need to buy, and get replaced. I am not sure if this is something I can do, as I bet you need special tools, and I don't want to mess something up.
What does it look like is appeared to be wrong? and if so would you know how much it should cost me? the guy said it will cost about $200 + parts.
I rather buy the parts, because I know it will be cheaper than if I get them off them, as they always jack up the prices.
Thanks
http://mopa.net/fotos/left-wheel-joint.jpg
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That's your "outer CV joint"! At this point the safest thing to do is get the whole driveshaft replaced.
A qualified mechanic would be able to tell you if you can get away with just replacing the boot. It would depend on the condition of the joint. Once dirt and water gets in, it will wreck itself fairly quickly.
Mind if I use your pic on my Web site?
And hey people, THIS is why you need to check your boots at every oil change!
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By the way, it would be a good idea to spend 50 cents to put a rubber cap back on the bleeder screw.
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That's a great picture! As TeGGeR says, the axle needs to be replaced. Shop around - $200 (US?) plus parts is very high. My local shop charged $65 US plus parts when I didn't have air tools. Even the dealer quoted slightly over $300 US parts (new!) and labor with tax. The axle should be under $100 US exchange (don't damage the threads if you DIY). Some places will try to sell you an alignment with it - replacing the axle does *not* affect the alignment. Unless the handling is squirrelly or the tires are wearing funny already, refuse the alignment.
Mike
Mike
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Thanks TeGGeR, and Michael.
Well, what is the name of all the part that I would need to get this completely fixed, and the prices of those parts. I will then have to get someone to install them for me, as this seems to be work, and I don't frankly want to screw anything up. We are talking about driving here, not just a easy change a bulb fix. :O(
Tegger, oh your more then free to use my pictures, as I know you do this kind of stuff all the time to help people out.
I just went outside and took some better pictures for you to use for your website. just goto: http://mopa.net/fotos/car
What is the name of the rubber cap that goes on the bleeder screw? or should I just stop at the store and ask for a rubber cap for my bleeder screw? I guess that would be best.
Oh, BTW, what screw is the bleeder screw anyways? is that something that its very important that there is a cap on it?
To get the entire driveshaft replaced would cost a lot of money I would think huh? unfortunately, I lost my job, and only have about $400 in savings that I could use to fix the car, and yeah it has to be fixed. I don't want to worry about it braking down, because there is no way I can go without a car. Everything here is very far, as I live in Atlanta. I drive about 2000 miles a month.
The CV joint doesn't seem to be damaged, thank God, but that rubber is completely cracked off. Is there anyway I could get a new piece of rubber for it? and if so what would I even ask for? I just don't want water or dirt to get in their like you said.
Thanks so much! John
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The part that is torn is the CV joint boot, and the part underneath is the CV (for Constant Velocity) joint. It works like a u-joint (universal joint) in that it flexes in two dimensions while transmitting torque, but the magic part is that a u-joint doesn't transmit the movement linearly when it is flexed - it whips between the 90 degree points. A CV joint moves smoothly all the way.

The bleeder screw is used to bleed the brakes. The cap keeps dirt out when the brakes are bled.

The degree of damage to the CV joint can be guaged by making a slow turn with the steering all the way left or right and your window down. A damaged joint makes a distinctive rucka-rucka sound, with worse degrees of damage showing up as pops and sharp clacks.
My recommendation is always to replace the assembly - called an axle shaft or drive axle - because they are the cheapest way to do a *quality* repair. I also recommend doing both sides because when one fails, the other is not far behind. But since money is really tight now, you can do the quick and dirty (especially dirty!) semi-repair. At auto parts stores you can buy "split boot" kits to replace the original boot. I haven't bought one but would expect to pay between $20 and $40 US. It will have a two piece boot (like the original, but split lengthwise), a big packet of grease and instructions. Essentially, you cut away the old boot, clean out as much of the old grease as humanly possible, smoosh as much of the new grease into the works as possible and put the rest in the boot, then clamp the new boot clamshell fashion over the CV joint. Did I mention this is all done while you are under the car? You're gonna love it. But it will stop the destruction of the CV joint from going much farther and not hit the savings too badly. If the CV joint hasn't reached the pop/clack stage you can go a long time with a split boot repair, and with luck and gentle driving a even a fairly bad joint should hold you until you get some money coming in.
Mike
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Wow, Mike,
Your the greatest man. Thanks.
Yes, the CV Joint isn't making any weird noices or anything that sounds like damage. Honestly, I just think what it is that the car is 12 years old and the rubber just slowly started to rot away and it just cracked apart. The grease seems fine, and I don't have any problems with turning the steering wheel while driving fast or slow.
It's just the guy at the shop said it needed to be fixed, and I know how these small shops are, they just want more money. I honestly don't feel like fixing anything unless its a must.
I bought this 1993 Honda Civic Lx last year (June 2004) for $1,900 from a women in Charleston, South Carolina, and she gave me all the paper work. So far this is all what has been done to the car.
March 1998 (new battery) April 1999 (New Wheel Bearings) October 1999 (CK Muffler & Gasket) October 1999 (Pipe & Spout) Whatever that is
In June 2004 - (Rack & Pinon Replaced, P/S Flush, Dist Rotor, Cap, Plug Wires, Replaced bearings in both rear wheels, repaired two heat shield, replaced both rear hub brdgs, replaced A/C Tenisor, Replaced all belts, replaced both C/V Shafts Align, Replaced Fear/Front Shoes and turn rotors) Total spent in repairs from 10/2002 to 06/2004 was $4,689.81
After I bought the car at the end of June, it must because she spent so much money and didn't want to spend anymore. Her paperwork stated it needed a timing belt changed, and that is when she sold it.
July 2004 the Timing belt was placed, all of the Gaskets on the entire engine were replaced, new tires, belts, and ever since I only been using Castrol Synthetic Oil for my car, because I have always heard its the best, and even though its expensive, its well worth it.
Three months ago I replaced the radiator, and now two weeks ago I installed a A/C compressor. I am hoping that since it said the C/V Shafts were replaced, that my C/V's should last a while. Now, what is the different between SHAFTS? and Joints?
(shafts must be a stick or something, hehe)
Thanks
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The CV shafts would be the same as the axle shafts - the CV joints are fastened to the shafts to make the assembly that is usually replaced. I'm not sure about regional differences in terminology (like if you are in the UK you'd carry things home in the boot instead of the trunk) but I've always called them axle shafts.
The first CV joint I ever did was on our '84 Dodge, and I elected to buy regular boots and repack the joints - kind of the worst of both worlds as far as work goes. I pulled the shaft out and disassembled the two CV joints (inner and outer) to clean them out thoroughly. I learned a lot but I don't recommend anybody getting that involved.
That outer CV joint is a mechanical marvel. You will see it is a center ball with grooves running lengthwise for the large balls that couple the two pieces, and the other end of the joint has a cage that the balls fit into. My description doesn't do it justice. I don't know how the balls end up lining up perfectly on the plane that bisects the angle the joint makes. Somehow I got the two pieces apart and somehow I got them back together, and the mysterious magical ball alignment took care of itself.
Mike
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i dont know if anyone noticed this, but this dollar amount seems excessive; 4689.81 for 2 years worth of maintenance? you say here that the CV shafts were replaced in 2004, why would the CV joints go bad in 2005? could the shafts possibly be replaced without putting in new boots? I dont see how a reputable mechanic would do that.
[quote] In June 2004 - (Rack & Pinon Replaced, P/S Flush, Dist Rotor, Cap, Plug Wires, Replaced bearings in both rear wheels, repaired two heat shield, replaced both rear hub brdgs, replaced A/C Tenisor, Replaced all belts, replaced both C/V Shafts Align, Replaced Fear/Front Shoes and turn rotors) Total spent in repairs from 10/2002 to 06/2004 was $4,689.81 [/quote]
by the way, i dont think you mentioned the milage on this civic, can you tell us that?
Fish

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Fish,
I know, yeah, well it seems that maybe the salt water could in fact eaten the rubber from the boot maybe? she lived just miles away from the ocean. That is kinda what my point is now, the CV cannot be bad, I sure would hope not if they were replaced last year. The women who I bought the car had only had the car for about 3 years, spent almost 5k in repairing almost everything, and then got pregnant with her third child, and sold the car because her and the family needed a bigger car, as she claimed. This women was a CPA, and her husband is a realtor. They just bought a new Dodge Durango, and wasn't driving the civic. It's a 1993 LX model.
For having the car say 3 years, they only drived it about 10k miles. I bought it with around 158,000K, and now it has 182,000K (damn, i put 24k miles in 13 months)
Anyways, Fish, I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't replace the boot, because where this women took her car in always did a pretty crappy, and lazy job on it.
The women spent like $1,500 on a paint job, and when I picked up the car from her it had almost no paint on it. For $1000 you can get a decent paint job at MAACO.
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disallow,

I honestly, do not know how long I have been driving the car without
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I realize that the joint is not making noise now, HOWEVER that doesn't mean that wear did not already occur which will require a complete driveshaft replacement! Here are the scenarios:
1. Cost = approx $50. Replace the boots on the driveshaft. This will require complete removal of the driveshaft, as well as disassembly of the inner CV joint (its a piece of cake if you have the manual, a ball joint separator, and a 32mm socket with breaker bar) You CANNOT put the outer boot on without removing the inner joint. There are kits out there that come in 2 pieces, and you can glue the 2 halves of the boot together, but these are ill advised as they tend to wear out within a year or so.
Also, if your outer joint did wear and just wasn't making noise yet, then suddenly develops this problem, you'll be back to square 1, you have to replace the driveshaft, and you just wasted your valuable time and money on CV boots.
2. Cost = approx $75 - replace the whole driveshaft. The same effort to remove the driveshaft as in scenario 1, however, no monkeying around with boots and grease and inner joints and trying to get all the damn grease out. Much easier, cleaner, and DEFINITELY THE WAY TO GO!!! for not alot of extra dough. and if you aren't confident enough to tackle the job yourself, it will cost you about an hour of labour at your local shop. t
mopa wrote:

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PS, I noticed in your pic that the area is COATED in grease from the CV joint. This means that there is probably about NONE left where it is needed. I stand by my recommendation to replace the whole driveshaft!
t :)
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The CV Shaft is the same as the whole Driveshaft right?
The women replaced the CV Shafts both in June of 2004, so hopefully the driveshaft is something completely different, because it cost the women $800 to replace the CV shafts, and I sure don't have that.
So I need this thing? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&itemy84581227
This is the left side, which isn't priced bad at all.
The only problem is I looked online at
and they want: Drivershaft Right $270.46 & Left $273 on this website
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
There is no way I can afford spending like $600 almost, plus labor.
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Call your local auto parts discount house. A rebuilt shaft is usually about $100.
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is the driving shaft the same as the CV shaft? I would assume its not.
So I know need CV shafts, driving shafts, and new boots?
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A rebuilt drive shaft, CV shaft, or whatever you choose to call it will come with new boots installed, and with a new locknut for the shaft end.
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I just checked the otherside of my car and now noticed that the other boot has the same problem. It appears that when the remove had the CV joints replaced, that the idiots didn't change the boots, it makes no sense at all, but its true. For a car that's 13 years old, you would expect that they would, but I guess they are lazy.
I stopped at a place today, and the guy said I should be good. He'll replace the boots for just $50+ parts. How does that sound?
Thanks
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This means 1 of 2 things. Either the person who sold you the car is full of shit and never replaced the CV shafts, or they replaced them with very poor quality replacement axles.
You can't change the driveshafts (or CV Shafts, or Half Shafts, they are all the same part called different things!) without doing the CV boots. It just wouldn't happen. They are part of the shaft!
And you don't seem to be listening. Your boots are not just cracked, they are TOAST. And you can't even tell us how long they have been like that for. THIS MEANS that you need to replace the driveshafts. PERIOD.
You can spend you $50+ parts (probably will end up being about $100), but the cv joints will inevitably start clicking in the not to distant future, indicating that they are shot too. Now your back to your shop, and unloading another $200-350.
Waste your money if you want (on just the boots) but don't come crying when your in worse shape soon.
Why not take a look at a manual to see how important these parts actually are? A little education can be a good thing.
t
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The OP is in a tight financial bind at the moment (gleaned from an earlier post) so going the split-boot route makes sense if he has no recourse. It is a case where "pay me later" is a lot better than "pay me now." Other than that, I completely agree with you - replacement axle shafts is the way to go.
Mike
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How much for the parts?
I have never heard of boots going bad within a year, and certainly not both sides. It makes no sense at all to replace only the CV joints and not the boots, because torn boots are pretty much the only reason for a CV joint to go bad. Something is very wrong... those CV joints were not changed last year.
I have had boots go out in about 5 years in Phoenix, where the heat is absolutely brutal, but 10 years is a more typical life span. Perhaps taking the car to the shop that supposedly performed the service (if you have the receipts or can get them) will get you some satisfaction. It's a cheap thing to try. Maybe an approach like you saw those things obvously bad and wanted to know how much to get it fixed and how long the new ones should last, then bring out the receipts.
Mike
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