i think my joint is damaged on the wheel, but not sure

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It's obvious that the woman was ripped off. So froget about what was doen and what was not.

How much would the part be? You really should consider replacing the whole thing, i.e CV shaft (see the link below) by buying a rebuilt one as someone suggested in this thread.
I did google search Read at http://www.trustmymechanic.com/parts_gallery/cv_boot.htm
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Oh yeah,and mike, getting dirty is no thing to me. I am always under my car doing something. I just replaced the headlights, and the A/C so I been under there quite a bit. Now this week I gotta change my oil.
3 weeks ago I changed the fuel filter. Anyways, how often should that be changed?
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Keep your fuel tank full all the time and you can leave the fuel filter practically forever.
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TeGGeR

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Really? I didn't know that. Why is that the case?
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote in

It keeps water to a minimum in your tank. Water in your tank gets into the lines, causing rust. That water and rust ends up in your fuel filter, and then the water gets in the system downstream from the filter, which means the regulator and injectors.
No water, no rust. No water, no frozen fuel lines in the winter, no stuck fuel regulators.
Also, letting the tank run down allows the fuel pickup to suck up crud from the bottom of the tank. Most of that is caught by the bag filter on the fuel pickup, but each time you drive, a few more particles sneak through, eventually being trapped by the fuel filter. If the tank is kept full, the pickup is drawing fuel from well above the bottom of the tank, so the chance of picking up crud is greatly minimized.
My tank is *never* allowed to sit overnight with less than 3/4 of a tank. It's usually filled up all the way before I park for the night.
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I am getting a new car tomorrow. I'll do the same.
Thanks for the info and tips.
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Actually, you can drive it until the vibration starts to loosen your fillings.
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Actually, the only one I've heard of separating was in a Ford Escort my second son had when he was in Montana. The joint itself is about the size of an apple and it's hard to imagine one of them separating, but now that I know they can I don't want to give someone too much confidence. I believe as long as it hasn't reached the pop/clack stage it can go on a very long time with new grease and a new boot, but I'd hate for anybody to bet their safety on my say-so about it.
I sure do wonder where it broke, though. Maybe where the cage is attached to the shaft?
Mike
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Just looking at the pic, #1 thing I notice is that this is NOT an OEM boot. (they are traditionally a little tougher and don't crack as easily). #2 is that there does not appear to be any other tell tale cracks in the boot, meaning that this malfunction of the boot was caused by an outside force puncturing the boot itself. That really sucks!
Depending on how long you have gone without the boot, you could possibly get away with doing just the outer boot. However, in order to do the outer boot, the inner boot has to be removed anyways, as the outer boot slides onto the shaft from the inside, once the inner boot and inner joint are removed.
If you have gone for longer than 1 week like this, I would suggest a complete replacement of the driveshaft. OEM boot kits will probably run you about $30 for outer and $30 for inner (you might as well replace the inner if you have to remove it, they get very brittle and it will probably need to be replaced after removal)
If you decide to go the boot replacement method, one tip I have is that in order to get ALL of the grease out of the joint, take the driveshaft to the carwash or use a pressure washer to clean the outer joint really thoroughly. Then let it dry well, use compressed air to get all the water out. The grease they send with the boot kit does not like other types of grease, and can cause problems if you don't clean it out properly. I tried to do it in a bath tub and a parts cleaner tub, but they didn't work. Actually, the instructions that came with my non-OEM boots for my 87 prelude gave me this little tip.... :)
t
Michael Pardee wrote:

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When I got my old Nissan (got rid of it in 1997) from my sister in 1995 - it was 87 model - she told me about the axel problem. The noise was small and I ignored it and drove it until in mid 1996 when the noise got louder. I changed the axel then. I put a new one at Mineke (came with warranty though but on an old car, probably not worth spending that much) because I didn't know that about rebuild one.
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Mike,
They have a place here in Georgia, and you pay $125 dollars, and you get a unlimited amount of alignments for 3 years, and they recommend getting one every 9 months or so. So your car is always driving straight, unlike most people's car anyway.
I guess it wouldn't hurt to drop it off and have them realignment the car again, after all I paid for it for the next three years, it couldn't hurt.
Oh Tegger? its the rubber on the CV is called a boot? so, but I guess there is no way I could slide that baby on there.
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